Stephen Jackson: Just wowed by Swedish cuisine

May 29 2009 By Stephen Jackson

A superb city, very easy to get around, and with far too many things to see and do in only two days. However, I can recommend the boat tour that leaves from Nybroplan in the middle of town. You get to see almost everything, and can hop on and off the boat for 24 hours, allowing you to visit the old town, the parks and museums most efficiently.

I recommend the Wasa museum for fans of old warships and Skansen park for those with kids – there’s lots of wild animals and old-fashioned funfairs.

Just down the funicular from Skansen is the famous Ulla Winbladh restaurant, where they serve the best meatballs in town – the classic Swedish delicacy of tender meatballs in cream sauce, served with a dollop of mash, pickled cucumber and lingonberries. My plateful was demolished in record time.

In the evening, Gamla Stan, the old town, is where a lot of the nightlife happens, but me being me, I had to try and find a really good restaurant, and I did.

Frantzén/Lindeberg, named after it’s two co-owner chefs, is quite exceptional, and for me had Oaxen beaten on cuisine, if not uniqueness.

Our amazing waiter was incredibly friendly and helpful, and explained all of the minute dishes that came from the tiny open kitchen.

Each mouthful was more amazing than the last. Highlights included veal with carrots and dill (apparently a take on a traditional school dinner dish!), salted cod loin with ‘potato’ onion (a small, very savoury variety) and an amazing dish of French toast with truffle and 100-year-old balsamico. Perhaps the highlight was the cheese course, called ‘Tour De France 2008’, where we were given a Perspex plate printed with the route of the race, along which, at relevant geographical spots, were placed small pieces of cheese.

We were given a little iPod upon which was a commentary of the cheeses by famous Swedish-born Hollywood actor Stellan Skarsgard! Quite memorable, and a great way to round off the trip for us.

One caveat, though, do make sure you’ve just robbed a bank before you go; Sweden is eye-wateringly expensive. But if you want to experience some amazing culinary delights in stunning surroundings, I cannot recommend it highly enough.

http://www.oaxenkrog.se/

http://frantzen-lindeberg.com/en

http://www.ullawinbladh.se