Wine column: An Italian love affair

THANKS to improved viticulture and some talented winemakers from small grower estates, Italy is enjoying a renaissance and bringing some excellent wines to the table.

Wines with character and flavour, that taste as fresh and enjoyable as if you were drinking them on a sun-drenched terrace in Venice overlooking the Grand Canal!

For a modern Suave (it’s a Suave Classico, but can’t be labelled as such because of the screwcap and not DOCG-approved) from the Veneto region in northern Italy, try Cantina di Monteforte Passo Avanti 2009 Soave (£7.99, Waitrose).

Intense and minerally with bags of fruit and a crisp, dry finish, it’s an excellent introduction to this bone-dry, herb-scented style.

It’s easy to forget the delights of a good quality pinot, and important to remember Italians like their whites pale and neutral. Along these lines, try Sensi Pinot Grigio IGT 2010 (£7.99).

If you’re a fan of full-bodied flavour, you may find this akin to mineral water with a hint of apple. But for those who like something chilled, crisp and clear, it’s thirst-quenchingly good.

A close cousin to a crisp, dry Pinot Grigio, Verdicchio is the Italian version of a sauvignon blanc and central Italy’s finest white. From the Marche region on the Adriatic coast, try Taste the Difference Verdicchio Classico dei Castelli di Jesi 2010 (£5.99, Sainsbury’s) for a zingy glass with lemony notes and a slightly oily finish that’s a good value midweek drinker - especially with a bowl of olives and a slice of pizza.

Several notches up the scale, Vernaccia di San Gimignano Le Calcinaie 2010 (£11, www.goedhuis.com) from the San Gimignano region in Tuscany is one of the country’s best known whites. Light and dry with fleshy pear notes, a slight fizz and hint of minerality, it’s very pleasant and refreshing.

Montecarlo (not to be confused with the French Principality), northern Tuscany, produces more racy numbers such as Fattoria Michi Montecarlo Bianco (£15.75, www.clubviniitaliani.co.uk). A blend of vermentino, trebbiano, sauvignon and roussanne, it’s light with citrus notes and a limey edge, slightly nettly on the finish with hints of olive oil that lend it to a delicious plate of seafood linguine.

Heading further north to the Trentino region at the foot of the Italian Dolomites, the whites can be rounder and richer, especially when chardonnay is added to the blend. Try Alto Adige Bianco Doc - Cortaccia Freienfeld (£64.50 for 3 bottles, www.designwine.co.uk). Classy, with wonderful purity of fruit, buttery nuances and a honeyed finish, it’s an Italian masterpiece with melon and parma ham – worth the designer price tag.

And for a classic lunchtime red, you can’t go wrong with a good barbera to complement tomato-based pasta dishes.

Related Tags

Share