Wine column: A toast to the best of British

BRITISH Food Fortnight (September 17 to October 2) is a marvellous excuse to crack open a gratifying bottle of wine, and raise a glass to quintessentially British cuisine.

County to county, supporting our local butchers, greengrocers and farmers’ markets by seeking out ingredients from our green and pleasant land calls for the right grape, to complement our tasty plate.

For a sparkling start to British Food Fortnight’s 10th anniversary, uncork a bottle of Kent’s best bubbles, Chapel Down Vintage Reserve Brut (£17.99, Waitrose). Seafood friendly, this crisp, feisty fizz with citrus, appley notes, and a subtle toasty finish is the perfect match with Dover sole and mashed potato.

Creamy fish classics, such as fish pie or home-cooked kedgeree, suit a crisp sauvignon blanc. Song & Dance Margaret River SBS 2010, Australia (£8.49, www.laithwaites.co.uk) is a delicious blend of sauvignon blanc and semillon, with a gooseberry herbaceousness, passion fruit flavours and enough minerality to balance out the salt and smoky flavours of the haddock.

If you prefer a red with your roast pork and crackling, or Lancashire hot pot, a soft, fruity southern Rhone blend is a good choice. Try Domaine Pere Vignal Cotes Du Rhone 2010, France (£6.99, www.laithwaites.co.uk).

Spanish wine such as Rioja is a typical match with roast lamb and casseroles, and Aldi has a new release to grace the table. Try Baron Amarillo Rioja Reserva 2006, Spain (£5.99, Aldi) with classic Rioja flavours of savoury mulberry fruit, earthy notes, sweet spice and a touch of vanilla from oak ageing.

Roast beef, Yorkshire pudding and lashings of gravy signal a blackberry beauty such as Asda Extra Special French Cabernet Sauvignon (£6.97, Asda).

Made from cabernet sauvignon, it’s a smooth glugger with a hint of spice, firm tannins and a savoury character behind the fruit – ideal for a Sunday roast.

To support our farmers’ fortunes, and ‘think, drink, English’, reaching for a smartly presented bottle such as Bolney Wine Estate Dark Harvest 2008, West Sussex (£8.99, Waitrose) is a good call. This family vineyard’s aromatic red grapes have flourished impressively on an East Sussex hillside, south of Gatwick, since 1972.

Medium-bodied, the red-fruit flavours and slightly smoky finish need time to breath, so it’s worth uncorking the night before. It’s a pleasant mid-week drinker with sausage and tomato that improves over a day or two.

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