NEVER out of vogue, a sprinkling of stardust surrounds champagne, and the illustrious brands which produce this legendary wine.
In France, grower champagnes (small winemakers who produce their own bubbles) dominate the French champagne scene, but in the UK our thirst for the grandes marques has crowned us the biggest consumer outside of France.
The 2011 Champagne harvest has just come to an end, and has been described as challenging, and unusual, by the Champenois.
With a harsh winter, summer-like springtime and autumnal summer, armies of pickers have just taken part in the second earliest harvest in the history of Champagne, since 1822.
Three grape varieties produce the classic champagne blend – pinot noir (a black grape for strength and body), pinot meunier (a black grape for roundness and fragrance), and chardonnay (a white grape for freshness and finesse), and cellar masters have billed the latter as outstanding this year.
Great news for lovers of blanc de blancs (100% chardonnay), recognised as the most feminine and elegant of the champagne cuvees.
Each house produces its own style, and the blend of grapes is a good way to tell the characteristics of the wine, and which brand name chimes with your tulip-shaped glass.
Rose champagne has been a star performer in recent years, and continues to score top medals in trophy taste-offs. Try the seductive and very pretty Boizel, Louis Bernard Rose Champagne NV (£19, Asda), this year’s Decanter gold medal winner for Best Rose over £10. A blend of pinot meunier, pinot noir and chardonnay, it’s a raspberry pink beauty with wild strawberries on the nose, rich raspberry sensations, good acidity and a soft creaminess on the finish.
For a good entry level supermarket brand, try Tesco Finest Premier Cru Champagne NV (£14.99 from £19.99, until October 4, Tesco) A blend of 70% chardonnay and 30% pinot noir, this smart label (dinner party worthy) offers unbeatable quality for the price. The fine beads of bubbles, fresh citrus fruit, hint of biscuit and excellent power deliver a sumptuous taste experience you’d expect from a top drawer fizz.
Relatively new to the wonderful world of sparkle, Nicolas Feuillatte is celebrating its 35th birthday. Demand for this trendy label has leap-frogged it to the top-selling brand in France, and number four on the global stage. Try Nicolas Feuillatte Limited Edition 35th Anniversary (£29, John Lewis). A classic blend of 30% pinot noir, 30% pinot meunier and 40% chardonnay, it’s fresh, bright with well-rounded peachy fruit, and a subtle hint of brioche on the zingy, citrus finish.
Who needs an excuse to crack open a bottle of Bollinger? Try its Special Cuvee (£42, Waitrose), a blend of 60% pinot noir, 25% chardonnay and 15% pinot meunier, with signature toasty notes, excellent power, structure and a gorgeous, creamy mousse.