A RARE foray into the world of fish this week, and a seasonal favourite of mine.

One thing people often associate with the Christmas period is salmon, more specifically the smoked salmon we see displayed prominently in many supermarkets, or on menus in many of our local restaurants.

I’m not sure why it’s so popular at this time of year more than any other period, but perhaps it’s something to do with the perceived luxury of the product.

It’s certain that the slippery, yielding sheets of almost translucent pink salmon feel and taste very fancy, especially when combined with rich cream cheese and perhaps even a touch of caviar, yet it’s one of our cheapest native fish, and is quite happy to be farmed.

It’s wonderfully rich, oily flesh lends itself to so many recipes, and also smokes and cures incredibly well. And it’s curing we’re trying this week; timed, hopefully, so that any of you wanting to have a go will have it ready to serve at a moment’s notice at any point over the Christmas week.

The recipe we’re taking on this week is the Swedish favourite, Gravad Lax. I find it immensely preferable to smoked salmon, though I do love that very much too.

I suppose it’s me being simply a sucker for dill – I adore the herb, with its unique pungent, aniseed-y flavour, in anything from pickles to creamy sauces – but the combination of the fresh herb with a sweet salt cure and the freshest fillet of salmon just does the trick, especially when combined with a sweet-sour mustardy sauce (heaped with more of that delicious dill) and some good brown bread.

It makes great sandwiches, and can be used in many other recipes that call for smoked salmon, such as twice-baked soufflés, stuffed mushrooms, rolled fillets of sole etc. It even grills to a crisp a bit like bacon, which is great for garnishing and sarnies.

Literally translated as ‘buried salmon’, Gravad Lax was originally created as a way of preserving fish through the harsh Scandinavian winters, by fishermen who would salt the fish and bury it in sand, above the high tide mark.

It would ferment slightly (the Swedes do have a thing for slightly whiffy fish – I suggest you NEVER try surströmming, even as an experiment!) and the dill and sugar were added to make it taste better.

Fortunately we’ve moved on, and now the sweet salt cure, bolstered with masses of fresh, scented dill, gives the fish its memorable flavour.

If you’ve never made Gravad Lax before, don’t be put off. It is actually one of the easiest dishes to put together, and takes only a few moments preparation before resting in the fridge to cure for a few days.

When you open up that parcel and slice into the now densely-textured, fragrant fish, you’ll wonder why you ever bothered buying the stuff from the supermarket.

You can also, as I’m always suggesting, play about with the additions.

A few dill or caraway seeds in the cure add new elements of flavour, as do zests of citrus fruit. Try adding some grated beetroot and you get the most amazing pink-hued salmon tinged with the most iridescent purple you can imagine. It looks amazing on the plate.

Now, some caveats: this dish is one you can’t really make in small portions. Trying to cure individual pieces of salmon will result in a rather unpalatable salty mess.

You need at least one side of salmon (cut into two equal pieces and sandwiched) or, for perfect results, both fillets of a whole small fish.

It will freeze when cured, and around Christmas, you’ll find plenty of takers for ‘just another’ slice of this delicious Scandinavian treat.

Just remember to start well in advance. The cure will work OK in 3 days, but is best after 5. Now, off you go to find a friendly fishmonger!

I wouldn’t suggest you use wild salmon for this particular recipe as its delicate flavour would be rather flattened. Your bog-standard farmed fish will do just fine. Aprons on!