A STEAK. A great, big, juicy, chargrilled, medium rare one wouldn’t be a natural first choice for Sunday Lunch.

But when you’ve spent the last three months in Sri Lanka living off fish curries, veggie curries and tropical fruits, then a good old fashioned English steak to sink your teeth into was a MUST.

Our friend, just back from a three months’ contract work on the island, had only one thing on her mind as she headed home.

Her husband was first, but a close second, was ... a steak.

And when it arrived, its juices glistening, swamping half the plate, you just knew it was going to be good. Chunky chips in a basket were straight from the olde Englishe chip pan and delicious too. It was so big it was carved and shared around!

They’d lit the roaring log fire on the Sunday we ventured there, the day after our pal had touched down from the Indian Ocean.

The fire alone drew sighs of approval, then it was on to the bar for our drinks and from there we were swiftly seated at our table for four in the cosy, pub dining area.

A special word for the waiters and waitress who were informed, very quick and very helpful and also displayed a great sense of humour as our “welcome home” wine bill racked up.

Sunday lunch at the Gray Ox is a favourite primarily because it’s terrific food and also because it’s great value. Two courses for £14 or three for £17 from the Sunday menu. There is also an a la carte to choose from so two of our four went “posh”.

The Gray Ox, open since 1709 serving thirsty locals who came in for ale by the jugful, serves classy food which is also the right side of rustic for us.

Cute button mushrooms in a tarragon sauce were a delicious revelation as a starter. Garlic mushrooms have been done to death but this was a new taste and a cracking blend of cream and the aniseed flavoured herb. A few more wouldn’t have gone amiss.

The other starters were moules marinieres and calamari in tempura batter served on a stone slate, accompanied by a wasabi mayonnaise, which was a little under-powered and needed extra wasabi which was duly brought and gave that familiar nose-tingling effect.

Kidneys were dark, red-brown and earthy and very, very tasty and cooked perfectly to the right texture. The bread brought earlier to the table was perfect for mopping the plates clear.

Mains were roast beef, mash, Yorkshire pud, duck-fat roasted tatties, a side tray of perfect veg and gravy. There were two good slices of beef cooked to mediumish. You could also pay extra for sirloin.

It comes stacked up then falls apart to eat and you’re suddenly faced with much more than you were anticipating at first sight.

Teriyaki salmon was a terrific wedge of crispy, orangey steak of fish with a wow factor in taste and visual appeal. Two steaks completed the mains.

If there was one niggle, it was a peppercorn sauce with the second steak that wasn’t really ‘peppercorny’ but a few twists of the mill sorted that out.

For puds, two went for the cheeseboard which came on trendy slate slab with designerish black and white octagonal crackers and pots of grapes and chutney.

There were six to choose from supplied by Birkby Cheeses – and as we had two platters we had all six – three on each shared around. All were excellent and included a cracking blue, and a hard cheese which was new to us all.

A huge slab of sticky toffee pudding was shared by the women. Again, sponge puds have been something of a rarity in Sri Lanka so it was devoured with ample for two people including creamy ice-cream and its springy, light, texture and rich flavour was given the thumbs up from two sticky toffee connoisseurs.

On previous visits the house wines had been memorable so we didn’t really need to peruse the wine list. A sharp, cold Pinot Grigio hit the mark as did a velvety Rioja. They really do know how to produce their reds at the prefect temperature.

Perhaps it’s to do with that roaring fire? They are both so good we ordered far too much. Similarly the port came at a beautiful temperature as though it had been sitting just waiting for us.

It was an excellent lunch turned early evening. One we had all been looking forward to hugely.

The perfect English country, autumnal, welcome home for our friend.

The Gray Ox has been reviewed many times and conclusion – unlike the menu – rarely changes: it is quality food, served well in very engaging surroundings.

We all hailed it a triumph but after three months in Sri Lanka more sun was on the menu because the next day our pals were on a plane to Spain for some sunshine – but still texting fondly of Sunday lunch at the Gray Ox and about who remembered getting home?!

The Gray Ox, 15, Hartshead Lane, Liversedge, WF15 8AL
Website: www.grayoxinn.co.ukTel : 01274 872845
Opening hours: Food –  Monday to Saturday from noon until 2pm, then 6pm until 9pm and Sundays, from noon until 7pm.
Children: Welcome.
Disabled:  Yes
The bill: About £80 for four – with lashings of wine and port on top
Would you go back? Certainly would