IT looks like the middle of Meltham is going to find itself on the foodie map before long.

Well, it had to happen since the village centre has seen two restaurants open in recent years and now, appropriately as a New Year starts, is the occasion to ring in a third.

At first I didn’t know what to make of Quirky Corner, the new kid on the block.

It appears this bold venture wants to build up a reputation for fine English food while being strikingly unconventional but cool.

Four of us – my wife, Pauline, and relatives George and Margaret – were in need of some satisfying winter fuel so in we ventured on a dark Tuesday night.

Lucky we were a foursome – we had the place to ourselves!

The restaurant had opened with a flourish only five nights before.

We were greeted and made at home by Rachel and Abigail who took the order for drinks while we picked our table and settled down with the menu.

We immediately warmed to this homely split level room, just big enough for two dozen diners.

Quirky isn’t so far out for describing its location either.

The building is an early-Victorian curiosity, wedged in a gap between Meltham Conservative Club at the top of Station Street and the shops in Market Place on Huddersfield Road.

It is setback from the main street and so is unnoticed by most people passing by between Holmfirth and the Colne Valley.

Until recently a popular emporium rejoicing in the name of Ollie’s Allsorts, it has been entirely refurbished.

The dining area is full of cottage character with warm earthy shades which are cosily set off by light wooden tables, chairs and fittings. Red floor tiles hint at an almost Mediterranean feel.

But it looked like the a la carte menu gave only a limited choice – only five starters and five mains so the four of us could cover 80% of the menu between us!

However, it soon became clear it was a clever selection and surprisingly a hard choice for us to make.

The starters range from £3.20 to £6, the mains £11 to £15.50 and puddings between £3 and £4.

A little expensive, but not over the top considering little touches such as fresh, locally-sourced produce and bread baked daily on the premises.

There is a New Year Early Bird menu (ordered between 6-6.30pm) promising “a belly full for 1,800 pence”.

Chef Kyle Hopkin is counting on making his mark with Quirky Corner in fine English food – with plenty of influences from overseas apparent from the subtle to adventurous.

A wider choice of courses, including vegetarian, will be introduced in the near future.

Kyle has more than 20 years of French, English and Chinese cooking experience and during that time he has worked at Nosh in Almondbury and Bradleys in Huddersfield.

Rachel, who is Kyle’s partner, was really helpful over choosing from the 16 wines available and we settled for a bottle of Chilean Explorer Reserve Pinot Noir reminding us of wild strawberries, and not too heavy.

For starters, Pauline and I went for the slow roast duck with a crisp salad.

Tender light flakes were piled into a decorative rice pancake basket and, to one side, small pancakes were arranged in a light coating of satisfyingly tangy chilli jam and chopped peppers.

Margaret started with smoked chicken salad and the parsnip crisps, described as light and delicately toasted, made it a wow. Her chicken was coated with just enough mayonnaise and was displayed on a bed of leaves and peppers.

Success for George’s starter too.

His toasted creamy and mild camembert salad was served on a bed of mixed salad with a very pleasant redcurrant jelly dressing.

I don’t usually go for steak when out because I usually end up thinking I can do it just as well at home.

But here my hefty English Sirloin with onion rings and fat chips came with full-bodied red wine gravy in a pourer.

My table knife slipped effortlessly through this medium to well done masterpiece – firm but tenderly succulent.

The meaty marvel was balanced perfectly by delicate crunchy petit pois, green beans and cauliflower.

Pauline’s grilled chicken breast served with a skewer on a bed of green vegetables and mustard potato mash with a creamy, slightly tarragon sauce was awarded the plaudit ‘perfectly cooked.’

Traditionalist George had decided to work his way through the Christmas party menu and had roast turkey medallions served with all the bits and bats.

He marked it at least eight out of 10.

Margaret selected the one fish course, two fillets of grilled sea bass.

Her verdict: Cooked to perfection and beautifully filleted – not a bone – and pan fried with crispy skin, which helps with the flavour of the fish even if you don’t eat the skin! And she approved of the fried vegetables and saffron potatoes.

So real bravura had been at work in the kitchen but we still had the puds to go.

I opted out for the British cheese and biscuits – Wensleydale, strong cheddar and stilton with oatcake biscuits and bread.Pauline’s choice of crème brulee was not available but the vanilla ice cream with bitter chocolate curls and toffee sauce was just as ideal.

It was a square of flamboyantly-presented Christmas pud in custard for George and Margaret’s deep classic lemon tart with vanilla and Chantilly cream sat in a sweet and crisp pastry.

She said this was eclipsed by the sauce which brought back happy childhood memories of strawberry Mivvi ice creams.

Kyle’s message on the menu is that he aims to put Meltham on the map for good food, service and a great bottle of wine to boot.

He might well succeed. I’ve made it one of my New Year resolutions to go back.