THE GENTLEMAN who greeted our arrival at Tamanna’s Brasserie on a cold wet night recently has to be in line for the Happiest Waiter in Britain title.

Whether he was an employee or the owner, I have no idea, but he brightened up the evening as he welcomed us like old friends – even though he didn’t know either of us.

He was beaming from ear to ear and his laugh was infectious. So much so that within a few minutes we were sitting at a table enjoying a couple of beers and chuckling to ourselves about nothing in particular.

Perhaps the reason for his mirth was the fact that the roadworks in Halifax Road at Birchencliffe have finally ended – but for how long remains to be seen. There’s bound to be some utility company penning an application to dig up the road once more even as I write.

The drilling and temporary traffic lights can’t have been good for business and on the night we dined the restaurant was less than half full.

Although it was obvious that Tamanna’s has a dedicated fan club as the jovial waiter called several customers by their first name and one chap just seemed to pop in for a couple of beers, a chat and a chuckle.

Tamanna apparently means “desire” and the owners’ intention is to tempt diners with a range of subtle flavours from India.

We were certainly tempted by the prospect of draught Cobra at £3 a pint and promptly ordered a couple.

The restaurant underwent a major interior overhaul about 18 months ago and has emerged with a pleasing upmarket feel. Pale side walls are offset by huge red velveteen flowered wallpaper on the end wall – it may sound odd, but it worked.

Under three large modern chandeliers, leather chairs surrounded tables bedecked with pristine white linen tablecloths and napkins. Each table had fresh flowers in bud vases.

Following the obligatory popadoms and pickles, we opted for lamb seekh kebab and fish piazi, marinated fish shallow fried with herbs, onions and peppers. The fish was lightly cooked and lightly spiced with a delicate flavour.

Our cheery waiter was very– but not overly – attentive and we rated the service as excellent and amazingly friendly.

Between each course he asked when we would like the following one to be served, a gesture we appreciated as service in Indian restaurants can sometimes appear rushed.

We ordered two of the chef’s specialities from the extensive menu which numbered over 100 dishes if you count all the meat, seafood and poultry options.

Each dish can be made to individual taste, either mild, medium or hot.

The Tandoori chicken tharkari contained 24-hour marinated strips of Tandoori chicken with herbs, spices and a touch of cream.

The chicken fillets were tender and well flavoured, although the sauce was a tad heavy. Perhaps a little less would have allowed the delicate Tandoori spices to come to the fore.

My chicken patan balti again contained high quality chunks of boneless chicken, this time with whole spinach leaves. And they were fresh, not the bottled variety used by some Indian restaurants.

The accompanying side dish of tarka dhal was thick and full bodied with the faintest hint of smokiness that all good lentil dhals should have.

Everything was beautifully presented in modern white crockery. The portions were enormous – we could easily have shared one main dish – and we had to admit defeat and ask for the remainder to be wrapped for home.

I looked around at the other tables – there was a doggie bag at every one where the diners had finished eating.

Lesson learned, we’ll save money and share next time.

Tamanna’s Brasserie,

210 - 212 Halifax Road, Birchencliffe, Huddersfield HD3 3QW

Tel 01422 374616

Website www.tamannas.com

Opening hours: Monday to Friday: 5:30pm to 11:30pm, Saturday: 5:30pm to midnight, Sunday: 4pm to 11:30pm

Children: Welcome

Disabled access: Limited. Phone for details

The bill: £39.50 for two, including drinks

Would you go back? Very likely