A WARNING. This recipe is not for the faint-hearted.

The vegetarian, the vegan and the downright squeamish may just wish to move swiftly along to Horace and Doris or the crossword, because this week its all about meat.

And not just meat, but raw meat. For many people, the idea of eating uncooked meat is simply a non-starter, but for the inquisitive and intrepid diner, the steak tartare is the ideal introduction to the raw end of the meat counter.

A million miles away from the image of a caveman gnawing on an antelope leg, the steak tartare is a tasty, fresh, healthy dish more akin to terrines and pat›s than simple chunks of cow.

Now making a return to the worlds dining rooms after decades in the wilderness, the steak tartare is an absolute classic, combining great flavours, textures and temperatures, with a piquancy and freshness that delights the palate.

The origins of the dish lie with the Tatar people from the Steppes of Central Asia.

They apparently spent so much time fighting (and when they werent fighting they were riding their horses between fights) that they had little time to bother with stopping and setting a fire, so they took to eating raw meat on the hoof as it were.

It is also written that the horsemen would tenderise the cuts of meat by sticking them under their saddles for a good days tenderising. Yes, quite. Yummy.

Fortunately, weve moved on, and the modern-day steak tartare is prepared in a far more hygienic and appetising manner.

It is a method that spans the globe, from the European classic we know well, to the lesser-known dishes like the Korean yuk-ho, the Chilean crudos and the Nepalese kachila.

Many versions of the Lebanese/ Syrian kibbeh call for uncooked meat, though tourist-friendly cooked versions often prevail.

Theres not many better ways of showing off a really good piece of beef, and in these days of gourmet cattle breeds and sensitive, selective farming, perhaps now is the time for the tartare to make a bid for the limelight once more.

The theatre of the making of a tartare, when done properly, at the table, by a friendly waiter, is a sight to behold; a flurry of spoons, a theatrical grind or two of pepper, and the offering of a small teaspoonful to the customer to check the seasoning is as they would wish. Delightful!

If you want to try a real beaut, may I suggest the tartare at the restaurant Flanigan in Puerto Portals, Mallorca? It is utterly perfect.

Many accompaniments are suggested, and most seem to favour the Melba toast wedge. Now dont get me wrong, I love Melba toast, but it never seems to last long enough.

Its so light and crunchy that it always seems to be scoffed in seconds, when it should be shared along with the steak.

So for me, the other classic accompaniment is best: chips. Now there are chips, and there are chips.

For battered cod, of course its the soggy, super-tasty chip-shop chip.

For roast grouse, the waffled game chip is required.

For a hamburger, were talking straight French fries.

For steak tartare, only one chip is worth considering, and that is the pomme allumette, which is just posh kitchen French for thin chips (literally matchstick potatoes); the hot, salty crunch is the perfect foil for the fresh, chilled, tangy steak, and combine this with a glass of good red wine and youre in carnivorous heaven.

Like I said, this dish may not be for everybody, but thats no reason not to share it.

Be bold, be brave, be adventurous; make friends with your butcher, and take a walk on the wild side

Aprons on!

For the steak:

500g excellent quality fresh fillet of locally-reared beef

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 large banana shallot or mild onion, very finely chopped

1 tsp capers, rinsed and very finely chopped

1 tsp cornichon pickles, very finely chopped

Worcestershire Sauce

Tabasco Sauce

Maldon Salt and freshly-ground pepper

A little fresh curly parsley, very finely chopped

2 very fresh eggs

To serve:

Matchstick chips

A good green salad (watercress, rocket, romaine)

Method:

Chop the beef finely into small cubes about - cm in size (or ask your butcher, who may be kind enough).

In a bowl, mix the beef with the mustard, the chopped shallot, the capers and cornichon pickles, and season to your taste with Worcestershire, Tabasco, salt and pepper. Finish with some freshly-chopped curly parsley.

Shape the steak into two neat patties, and make a small dip in the top.

Chill until needed, but no more than about 15 minutes, as the acidity in the seasonings will cook the protein and make the meat look grey and unappetising.

Separate the eggs, and pop a yolk into each dip. You can then mix this yourself on the plate.

Serve immediately with a big bowl of hot, rustling chips and a lightly-dressed simple green leaf salad.