THIS WEEK, something that’s not everybody’s cup of tea – offal.

More specifically, liver. Its unique flavour is something I adore in all manner of recipes, and it’s a terrifically cheap option in these financially frugal times.

I know many of you will simply ignore this recipe and read on, because you don’t like it, and I understand that, of course.

But for those who aren’t really sure, do try this recipe, because it’s wonderful, bursting with flavour and liver is one of the best natural sources of vitamin A you can get. So it’s a great source of antioxidants and will keep your coat shiny.

I’ve been brought up on liver, and I think that’s crucial for the offal lover – such things aren’t often picked up later in life.

I was probably the only child that looked forward to the liver and bacon lunch at school, and the very first time I tried a slice of seductive, rich calves liver I was in heaven.

There isn’t a type of liver I don’t enjoy; they all have their own unique flavours. At the delicate end of the spectrum we have calf liver, best served as centimetre-thick slices, quickly fried or grilled, still pink in the middle, with little in the way of accompaniment to get in the way.

A hint of rosemary’s nice, as is sage, and perhaps a little splash of sweetish wine, like Marsala or sherry.

Chicken livers are excellent fried and doused in hot, shallot-y vinaigrette, then tossed into a big bowl of salad leaves. Go heavy on the chicory and other bitter leaves to counteract the rich sweetness. It’s a warm salad you’ll want to cook again and again.

We can’t miss out goose and duck liver, really, and while I’ll admit I’m not keen on the idea of force-feeding animals, and I’m trying to cut down on my annual intake to one or two treat occasions, there’s no denying the sheer indulgence of a slice of foie gras, that rich, buttery delicacy, seared for seconds in a smoking pan, paired with a glass of Sauternes or Barsac. It is heavenly, the very definition of a guilty pleasure.

At the other end of the spectrum we find the strong livers, like ox and pig. Pig’s liver I can gladly live without, to be honest.

I find it a little too harsh for my taste, and the rich, iron-heavy ox liver needs to be paired with something tasty and salty like ham or bacon for it to be enjoyed.

The most versatile liver in my opinion comes from the lamb, and that’s the one we find more often than not on the butcher’s counter.

It’s brilliant sliced thinly and fried in a little butter with some shredded smoked bacon.

Try rolling nuggets of liver in spicy flour (a pinch of cayenne and mustard powder) and flash in a hot pan before deglazing with a little stock and wine, then tip over a bowl of tasty rice; a perfect supper.

Liver responds well to sweetness, and in particular I’ve tried pairing the tastiness of lamb’s liver with soft, sweet prunes many times – a combination that works incredibly well, especially with a grilled rasher of bacon and a scoop of mashed potato. Which brings us to this week’s recipe.

It’s a version of an Italian classic, I suppose, which traditionally uses calf liver, but as that’s a) hard to come by for most of us and b) a bit on the pricey side, I decided to use the versatile lamb’s liver as a replacement.

Just be careful not to overcook it, as it’s done in seconds. The combination of lemon juice and sage is brilliant with most meats, but with liver it seems to work a strange kind of tasty magic. One final thing – ask your butcher if he’d remove the membrane from the liver and slice it thinly for you, as it’s quite a fussy task. Aprons on!

For the liver:

500g lamb’s liver, trimmed

4 large onions, very thinly sliced

50g butter

A splash of olive oil

Juice and zest of 1 lemon

A few leaves of fresh sage

Splash of white wine

For the pomme purée:

1kg potatoes (Desirée are perfect)

100 g butter

200 ml double cream

S&P

Extras:

A few handfuls fresh spinach per person, very well washed

A little butter

Method:

Firstly, make the potato purée. Bring a pan of salted water to the boil. Peel the potatoes, cut into chunks and simmer them until tender (about 15-20 min), then pass them through a mouli or mash by hand.

Heat the cream and butter and whip into the potato. Season well and reserve until required. This will reheat very successfully and can be made in advance.

Cut the sliced liver into pieces about the width of your little finger. Finely chop the sage.

In a wide, thin sauté pan, heat a knob of butter and a little olive oil, and fry the onions for 20-25 minutes, until they become soft and golden.

Remove from the pan, and turn up the heat.

Toss the liver into the pan, and fry quickly to get a good crust around each morsel.

Deglaze the pan with a splash of white wine, and when this has evaporated add a little more butter, the lemon zest and juice, the onions and the sage.

Just before serving, heat a little butter in a pan, and add the washed spinach and a grind or two of black pepper.

Wilt the spinach for a few minutes until it’s a lovely deep emerald green, then press against the side of the pan to drain it.

Serve a nest of spinach alongside a scoop of hot potato purée and a portion of the liver and onions.

If you’re feeling really fancy, deep-fry a few whole sage leaves for a few seconds – they are wonderfully crisp and fragrant.