SEPTEMBER offers a green light for foodies to plunder the fruits of the sea, and school themselves on white wines to pair with shellfish.
Our local crustacean stalls are blanketed with rock oysters, crayfish and soft shell crab all summer long, but native oysters should only be eaten when there is an ‘r’ in the month.
To help you set sail with your plate of half-a-dozen, a bright, crisp New World riesling such as Mud House Riesling 2010, Waipara, NZ (£10.99, www.everywine.co.uk) is the right white with a wide range of oysters. Dry and citrusy, the crisp acidity complements the freshest, sweet flavours of the oysters and at 12.5% abv, it’s a great lunch wine.
Verdelho usually signals the fortified wines of Madeira, but plant this fruity grape Down Under and it produces intense, perfumed whites such as De Bortoli DB Selection Verdelho 2009, SE Australia (£6.69, Waitrose). An exotic alternative to a chardonnay, this blossomy, full-bodied white just stops itself from tipping over the edge, and tastes quite delicious with seared scallops or delicate fish dishes.
For an elegant, fine-boned white from the Roussanne, Northern Rhone, try Jean Luc Colombo Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2010 (£8.99, www.luvians.com). Made from the rather obscure clairette grape variety, it’s well-rounded and minerally with a lemony nose and nicely balanced acidity – a terrific choice with a classic Mediterranean-style dish such as risotto and shellfish.
If you love the creamy richness of a Californian chardonnay, Tesco has a fine example that’s not overpriced. Try Finest Sonoma Chardonnay 2009 (£9.99, Tesco). From the Sonoma Valley, where the grapes are blessed by the cooling Pacific Ocean fog, it’s rich and round with tropical fruit flavours and green apple notes. A brilliant white that sings out for a gourmet fish pie packed with fruits de mer.
Steering towards classic seafood dishes made with a firm white fish such as skate or monkfish, try Clarendelle Blanc 2009 (£14.99, www.averys.com). A blend of 24% sauvignon blanc, 68% semillon and topped up with muscadelle, it won gold at the 2011 Mondial de Bruxelles International wine competition. A beauty from Bordeaux, the semillon adds weight to the blend, and it’s exceptionally fruit forward with delicate peach aromas and honeysuckle notes. This lively white is a delicious aperitif on its own.
If you can’t resist a racy sauvignon blanc with your moules marinieres or ceviche, try the mouth-watering Matua Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Marlborough, NZ (£15.46, www.yourfavouritewines.com). Aromatic with a gentle explosion of ripe guava fruit and kiwi on the mouth, this bright, herbaceous white sings from the glass and there’s a subtle hint of concentrated peach on the grassy finish -– it’s extremely pleasant.
Chile likes to turn its hand at most grapes, and Casa Marin, Cipreses Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (£17, email ledburyshop@haywines.co.uk, or call 01531 634 449) from the cool climate of San Antonio Valley was crowned Best Sauvignon Blanc from the New World at last year’s Decanter World Wine Awards. Quite an accolade for a winemaker who first opened her cellar door in 2000. Crisp with a grassy nose, delightful citric and white peach flavours, fresh acidity and a herby finish, it certainly perked up my palate - a champion choice with any type of seafood.
Let’s raise a glass to our favourite catch of the day!
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Wine column: Fishing for a fresh white
SEPTEMBER offers a green light for foodies to plunder the fruits of the sea, and school themselves on white wines to pair with shellfish.
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