The French, those guardians of haute cuisine, have given in to the modern restaurant practice, that is prevalent in many other parts of the world, of providing doggy bags for left over food.

They say it is to combat public and government concerns about wasting food.

The restaurant body the Union of Professionals has signed a deal with a take-away carton company to provide microwave-friendly containers to encourage diners to take home what they cannot eat.

The modern idea of doggy bags started in America, where everybody eats out as a matter of course.

Even there, food shortages were felt during the war years of the 1940s, and Pet Pakits and bags marked Bones for Bowser were introduced, into which left over meals could be packed.

The idea at that time was that the food would be fed to the diners’ pets. But soon, people decided the grub they carted home could easily make another meal for them, and the pets had to do without.

Doggy bags are now an institution in the United States and if there is a sizeable amount left over, the waiter or waitress will ask, as a matter of course, if you want to take it with you.

They are available in the UK, although you have to ask for one, rather than have it offered. I still think it might take a while to catch on in France, with their superior attitude to food. It may require the diner to prompt the waiter: “Do you have frogs legs?” “Oui, monsieur.” “Well hop over here and bring me a doggy bag.”