The Turnpike at Rishworth Moor is a landmark pub.

Tens of thousands of people pass it every day … from a distance.

For as you pass Stott Hall Farm nestling cosily between the two thundering carriageways of the M62 near Scammonden heading towards Huddersfield, then glance to your left and you’ll see Booth Wood reservoir and the large pub/restaurant next to it is the Turnpike.

That makes it easily accessible from Huddersfield. Go on the M62 from Outlane, turn off at Junction 22, follow Halifax Road and five minutes later you’re there.

It’s a large coaching in that opened in 1822, a welcome respite for weary travellers struggling over the Pennine Moors from Lancashire into Yorkshire … or even the other way.

The bar and restaurant is large and roomy which gives plenty of space and it’s certainly more than clung on to its coaching inn past.

Saddles are perched high on the walls as though they belonged to ghost horses that had jumped through the masonry, leaving them embedded there.

The lamps have that oldy worldy feel along with the wooden floors and the old photographs and even pencil illustrations that adorn the walls.

In short, it’s traditional.

And with that comes traditional good service. Even though we were half-an-hour late and by arriving at 8.45pm were pushing close to the 9pm cut-off limit to order food, we were warmly welcomed.

We’d phoned earlier to book and a little reserved card was on the table.

Okaay, a little touch but it shows your custom is valued.

The Turnpike certainly prides itself on the quality of its food. All its meat is sourced from Broster’s farm shop at Lindley Moor.

So it’s hearty fayre with starters such as tomato and coriander soup with crusty baguette slices, slices of Bury black pudding with bacon and melted cheddar cheese, garlic mushrooms in white wine and halloumi cheese and sweet chilli jam.

And yet we shunned the lot, opting for the specials. Mine was crab and smoked salmon salad that was just the right size, not too large, not too small. As for salad dressing my theory is you can’t have enough and asked for more, Oliver-style. No problem, a little jug of honey and mustard dressing was there in seconds.

My wife Ruth opted for brushetta – large slices of peppers and quality parma hand on homemade focaccia. A starter that could do as a main course for lunch. Certainly one to try at home – surely it’s time to ‘shun the sandwich’.

The mains were the Turnpike’s signature dish of twice-cooked belly pork with black pudding mashed potatoes, mushroom sauce and braised cabbage. Now that’s a dish for a cold night and by now the rain was hammering down outside, even turning to sleet.

It’s a fair-sized piece of pork that almost completely covers the mash beneath. Mash and black pudding. Mmmm, that’s a thought. Let’s all do more with mash – mash and mustard, mash and horseradish, mash and spring onion. It’s so easy to lift the humble potato out of the ordinary.

And then there was the crackling. Light, brittle, melt-in-the-mouth – and I was asked if I wanted even more.

An offer that would be, well, rude to refuse and a small plate quickly arrived with a slice of crackling resting on it.

The creamy mushroom sauce and braised cabbage were ideal accompaniments – one taking away any dryness while the other giving it a slight kick.

Ruth’s roasted hake – again from the specials – was large, tender and light, made slightly heavier for the homemade chunky chips. You get more than plenty for two for £2.50.

And still room, just, to share a pud. It was white chocolate and gingerbread panna cotta with shortbread biscuits with the panna cotta soft, creamy and delicately flavoured. It’s an Italian dessert made by simmering together cream, milk and sugar, mixing it with gelatin.

Apparently the head chef’s now working on a new dessert menu and one staff member (who had no idea we were there doing a food review) said they were something special.

“Sticky toffee pudding is normally seen as quite a heavy pudding,” she said. “Well, this one is incredibly light.”

There is a new management in the pub and they are starting to tweak the menu and may even be bringing some of the prices down.

If that’s not all worth going back for then I don’t know what is.

Oldham Road, Ripponden, Halifax, HX6 4RH

Tel: 01484 822789

Website: www.turnpikeinn.com

Opening hours: Mon-Fri: Open from 9am.

Serving food 9am to 9pm; Saturday: Open from 9am. Serving food 9am to 10pm; Sunday: Open from 9am. Serving food 9am to 8pm

Children: Yes

Disabled access: Access and toilets

The bill: £63 for two including drinks

Would you go back? Yes

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