WHAT’S your definition of a pub grub classic? Fish and chips? Lasagne? Sausage and mash?

How about gammon and egg? Meat and potato pie?

I know they’d make my list and they (and a few more) make up the mains section of the menu at Stainland’s 1885 The Pub.

Little brother of the adjacent 1885 Restaurant, the pub opened earlier this year and has been fitted out to a high standard.

Chunky farmhouse-style chairs and tables are complimented by a tartan-y carpet and stone slabbed floor with a fire burning away in the fireplace in the centre of the pub.

It’s a simple, homely yet chic interpretation of what a pub should look like in the 21st century.

The menu is simply presented and covers starters, mains and desserts plus a selection of sandwiches, salad bowls plus sharing ‘planks’.

Our party of four went for two garlic mushrooms, a pie and peas plus a kipper pate.

The two who picked the mushrooms were presented with the button variety in a small metal pail covered in a creamy sauce supported by a couple of pieces of toast.

A pleasingly garlicky whiff wafted off the dish and the bulb delivered an aromatic quality rather than a punch to the mushrooms.

My kipper pate eating companion declared her dish to be the tops, only having a mark removed for not enough toast to get out the last of the generous portion of pate.

It was delivered to the table on a wooden plank with the pate in a Kilner-style jar and accompaniments lined up along the board. Pleasing on the eye and palate.

I chose the pie which came on an inch thick square wooden plate with a depression in the middle to hold the peas with the pie sitting on the top. The dish also comes with a fabulously pungent mint sauce that gave the garlic a threatening nod and then took over the table.

The pie was crisp and warm sat in a decent portion of peas and when paired up with mint sauce (and a bit of brown) was top starter which evoked memories of football, bonfires and other many and varied places I’ve consumed pies in the past.

The waiting/bar staff deserve a mention too. They were friendly and efficient – helpful but not overpowering.

For mains we had a mussels, two chicken Kievs and a sausage and mash.

The generous portion of mussels came in a cream, garlic and white wine sauce. They were accompanied by a small bucket (if there’s such a thing) of fat, crispy chips.

Plenty of lip-smacking and smiling ensued and, despite not being offered one, it seems the mussels were fat and not a bunch of the size zero ones that masquerade in meals at certain places.

The chicken Kiev was served on creamed peas and was suitably moist on the inside and crisp on the outside. Only one complaint was that the Kiev had been sliced up for presentation on the plate but one of my fellow diners wanted the ‘ooh’ moments of cutting up the Kiev himself and seeing the butter ooze out. As he put it, ‘You wouldn’t want someone bursting the egg on your breakfast would you? It’s the same.’

I went for the sausages which came as a trio of coarse porkies slathered in a delicious jus and ably supported by a few cones of creamy mashed potato. There was also a portion of onions to bring a texture change to the meal.

The menu at 1885 The Pub is very reasonably priced – this is best demonstrated by a portion of chips. You get a full plate of proper chips for £1.50. Not the ridiculous £3 favoured by some places – note to them, we all know how much potatoes cost.

Unfortunately we underestimated the portion size of the chips and ordered three portions, which when delivered to the table give it a suitably carbohyratey creak.

When we finished up and got the bill we were delighted. Good quality ingredients, well cooked and sensibly priced in a lovely environment. Now that’s what classic is all about.

1885 The Pub

Stainland Road, Stainland

Tel 01422 310099

Website www.1885therestaurant.co.uk

Opening hours For breakfast from 10am seven days a week and main menu runs 12-8pm Monday to Saturday and to 6pm on Sundays.

Children Yes

Disabled access Yes

The bill A shade over £44

Would you go back?Yes - but you can’t book so get there early!