WHEN you go to a restaurant lots of things have to be right and most diners quite rightly concentrate on the food and the service.

But there is another aspect that often exercises my wife, Ruth’s mind. And that’s warmth. She doesn’t like to be cold – my heating bills vouch for that.

Over the last few months we’ve been in a few restaurants that have, well frankly been lukewarm at best – especially if you’re stuck near the door. It shouldn’t happen. It puts customers off.

Sanam’s is in the middle of Elland right next to the swimming pool’s car park. It’s completely upstairs and the only sign it’s there is a door and a menu outside. It was cold outside and cool as we started to go up the winding staircase.

“I hope it’s warm’’ said Ruth and doubts began to come into my mind that it may not be as cosy as she’d like. But worry ye not. Once at the top of the stairs a wave of warmth hit us.

Not hot – otherwise you’re going too much the other way – just that warm feeling all over will do quite nicely. The radiators were on and we sat right by one.

First hurdle over.

Next, the service. This restaurant has been around for a while and it’s clear straight from the off that the customer is at the centre of this.

No immediate hassle over drinks – we had plenty of time to choose the booze and food.

There’s a laid back feel about the place helped by the soft, high backed and remarkably comfortable leather chairs and the modern yet subdued lighting.

We went just before Christmas and they even had a Christmas tree, decorations and gentle festive music softly caressing our lugholes.

This restaurant clearly knows the value of a strong customer base and more about that becomes clear later.

And onto the third. Food.

The popadoms come with four sauces – so many rivals just offer up the usual raita mint and cucumber yoghurt.

It’s a reasonably extensive menu ranging from the chef’s specials to the usual suspects such as madras, vindaloo, korma, dopiaza and rogan josh.

But to start it had to be the sizzler. And it certainly sizzled. You could hear it the moment the door to the kitchen opened and the trolley came forth.

It was still sizzling when it was royally laid before us – onion bhajis, chicken pakora, seekh kebab and chicken and lamb tikka.

They’ve mixed green chillies into the kebab which give it a real kick with onion dominating in the onion bhajis rather than flour which you do get in some places.

Both the chicken and lamb tikka were more delicately spiced so as not to drown the meat’s flavour. The pakora was the sole disappointment as it came across more like chicken in batter.

As for mains it always has to be the specials. If you’re going somewhere you’ve not been to before give them the chance to show just what they can do with their signature dishes.

Balti chicken achari is a medium dish that includes finely cut potatoes, onions, capsicum and tomatoes and has a slightly sweet and sour sensation. It was totally different to the other that was balti chicken spinach massala.

Certainly not short on spinach, this was a smoother dish that was the perfect companion to its far more tangy companion.

The pilau rice was pretty plain – nothing special.

Now it’s rare we’d opt for a pudding, but there was just enough time and, more importantly, room for the some gulab jamun. You can never go wrong with this Indian version of syrup sponge pudding and that was the case here.

Service was certainly attentive – we were asked if everything was OK during each course and at the end of the meal presented with a tick-off sheet for us to share our thoughts.

It’s quite simple really – spice up the pakoras, tweak the pilau rice to turn it into something special and keep the place as warm as it is now, especially in bleak midwinter.

And you’ll keep Mrs Hirst happy.

Sanam’s

Unit 2, Fastlane Building, Elizabeth Street, Elland

Tel 01422 371824

Website www.sanamselland.co.uk

Opening hours 5pm to midnight Sunday to Thursday; 5pm to 12.30am Friday and Saturday

Children Yes

Disabled access No

The bill £36.45

Would you go back? Yes