The rain comes in relentless waves. I’m looking out along the Colne Valley towards Lancashire as I write this, and it definitely seems that, even if it’s still on holiday, summer is definitely packing a few things away into its suitcase and checking where it put its passport.

Today is grey, blustery and miserable; the sort of day that keeps us indoors, all nested and warm. I’m even thinking about lighting a fire later, and it’s still August!

It looks autumnal already, and I think it’s the end of the barbecue season for another year. So, at times like this, the body and soul begin to crave proper comfort food.

We all have that mental Rolodex through which we can flip when we really want something soothing to eat; food that cheers us up and enlivens the palate.

It can be the simplicity of a bowl of tomato soup or beans on thick buttered toast, or it can be the warming dishes that take most of a day to put together, shuffling from chopping board to stove, happy to be cooking in a warm kitchen with the radio burbling away in the corner, or a favourite album playing. Lasagne, pies and chilis tick all the boxes here – easy to make, but with such delicious, restorative results.

This idea came to me as I sliced into a nice, plump ripe Brie for a toasted sandwich at work. I’d forgotten how much I like these cheeses, Brie and Camembert, with their pillowy white rind that I always find vaguely mushroom-scented, giving way to that almost impossibly rich yellow paste within, creamy, buttery, a little sharp and definitely calorific.

I wondered if it would lend itself to being melted all over a vegetable bake, and immediately landed upon the idea of a tarted-up cauliflower cheese, enhanced with a few non-standard extras, and covered with thick, bubbling slices of Brie. This week’s recipe was born.

I’d read recently that, given none of us are watching the weight right now, it’s a really good idea to fry the cauliflower florets in sizzling brown butter. Not only does it help dry out the pieces, but it brings out the depth of cauliflower flavour and adds a further dimension of almost nutty richness.

We’re going to bind the cauli in a classic Mornay sauce – essentially a classic Béchamel with added cheese (I used a good tasty Cheddar for boldest flavour), top it with thick slabs of Brie, then add a crisp dimension with crunchy breadcrumbs.

To add a few lighter notes, we’ll add plenty of chopped parsley and lemon zest to the topping, and then finish off with a big drizzle of truffle oil, which will suffuse the whole dish with that unmistakeably rich, pungent aroma and savoury taste. If truffles aren’t to your taste, and I know many for whom it’s not popular, try a rich olive oil, or even a herb or flavoured oil that you prefer. Hazelnut or walnut oil would, in particular, add an amazing level of flavour.

This cauli cheese would be great served alongside a roast, or even barbecued meats (if you’ve not wheeled it back into the garage), but in fact this rather fancy version is intended as a dish on its own, with just the simple additions of soft granary bread, a little bitter-leaf salad and a glass or two of good, forceful red wine.

FOR THE CAULIFLOWER CHEESE:

1 large, fresh cauliflower

1 pint full-cream milk

A few slices of onion

4 cloves

2 bay leaves

200ml double cream

60g butter

60g plain flour

85g strong Cheddar cheese, grated

Celery salt

Fresh black pepper

Cayenne pepper

FOR THE TOPPING:

About 6 heaped tablespoons fresh white breadcrumbs

150g ripe Brie cheese sliced

60g butter

A few teaspoons chopped parsley

The grated zest of 1 large lemon

Truffle oil

EXTRAS:

A suitable baking dish that will take the cauliflower in a single level

A few bitter salad leaves, like frisée, radicchio and chicory

Granary bread

METHOD:

Heat the oven to 220ºC / Gas 7. To make the sauce, gently heat the milk and cream in a pan with the onion, cloves and bayleaves. Allow to sit, off the heat, for 5 minutes, then strain and keep warm. In another pan, melt the butter over a medium heat, and then stir in the flour. Cook out for a couple of minutes until it starts to smell nice and toasty, then quickly whisk in the warm milk, a bit at a time, until you have a nicely smooth sauce.

Add the cheese and whisk until melted. Turn the heat right down, season well with both peppers and a little celery salt, then leave the sauce to simmer for 5 minutes. Keep warm.

To prepare the cauliflower, bring a large pan of well-salted water to the boil. Cut the cauliflower into even-sized florets and quickly boil them for 4 minutes, until just tender.

Drain thoroughly. Melt 30g of the butter in a frying pan over a medium-high heat until sizzling and just starting to brown. Fry the drained cauliflower until it is slightly caramelised around the edges. Add to the béchamel sauce and spoon the whole lot into a suitable baking dish. Add the rest of the butter into the same pan, tip in the breadcrumbs and fry until crunchy and golden, then add the lemon zest and chopped parsley.

Top the cauliflower with the brie slices, and bake for 20-25 minutes until the cheese is nicely melted. Spoon over the breadcrumbs and bake for a further 10 minutes, or until the whole dish is bubbling irresistibly and crunchy on top. Quickly drizzle the whole dish with a good splash of truffle oil, and serve immediately, along with some good soft granary bread, a crisp salad and a glass of hearty red wine.