The rhythmic dip of oars into water is all I hear as I peer out from above my slightly ill-fitting life jacket. In the dusky light, the river banks appear to stretch into infinity. Deer, wild boar and exotic birds are gathering at the water’s edge for an evening drink.

Feeling a breeze on my cheek, I turn to find it’s from the beat of a wing. A small group of birds have joined us, circling and darting alongside our little boat.

We’re in the peaceful Chitwan Valley in southern Nepal, a world away from the sensory assault of capital city Kathmandu.

Many travellers to Nepal fly straight in and out of the capital on their way to a series of well-worn trekking routes around the country. But it’s worth sticking around for a few days and exploring the surrounding area.

On the city’s periphery I found Buddhist and Hindu temples alive with swinging monkeys and crumbling doorways opening up to reveal magical gardens and hidden courtyards, not to mention a stunning Newari five-star hotel.

Over in nearby Patan, new patterns of culture are emerging from cross-cultural pollinations of eastern and western music and cuisine. Further afield, the horizon shifts and opens up to the spectacular Himalayan sunsets of Nagarkot and the lumbering elephant safaris of Chitwan’s plains.

The Kathmandu Valley alone is home to seven world heritage sites, more than 3,000 temples and a plethora of spiritual, cultural and surprisingly serene experiences.

Kathmandu itself is a full-throttle city. Taxi and rickshaw drivers sound their horns far into the night, and ‘momos’ (delicious Nepalese dumplings) simmer on oversized hot plates in every other doorway.

In tourist-friendly zone Thamel, small dust roads are lined with guest houses, shops, workshops and every imaginable type of food outlet. But despite the heavy, fuel-belching traffic and general hunger for modernisation, symbols of tradition still remain.

Temples, terracotta sculptures, bronze crafts – the results of 2,000 years of habitation– are crammed in to a patchwork of medieval buildings and new builds. Today, most visitors pass through on their way to “greater” adventures, but hang around for a few days and Kathmandu’s magic will quickly take hold.

FACTFILE

Fiona Wootton travelled as a guest of Bales Worldwide who offer the 10-day Nepal Panorama from £2,270 a head (based on two adults travelling), including scheduled flights, sightseeing and accommodation encompassing Kathmandu (two nights), Pokhara (two nights), Bandipur (one night), Chitwan National Park (two nights) and Kathmandu (one night).

Call 0845 057 0600 or visit www.balesworldwide.com

WHERE TO STAY:

The pool area at Dwarika's Hotel, Kathmandu, Nepal
The pool area at Dwarika's Hotel, Kathmandu, Nepal
 

DWARIKA’S HOTEL, Kathmandu

The authentic, family-run five-star hotel offers elegant suites filled with four-poster beds, a pool and a pretty courtyard with daybeds. Visit www.dwarikas.com

Peaceful Cottage, Nagarkort, Nepal
Peaceful Cottage, Nagarkort, Nepal

PEACEFUL COTTAGE, Nagarkort

Peaceful Cottage is a fun, relaxed hotel, and an excellent viewing point from which to soak up the views. Visit nagarkothotels.blogspot.co.at

WHERE TO GO:

1. GARDEN OF DREAMS, Kaiser Mahal, Kathmandu

This vast neo-classical garden is 10 minutes’ walk from the centre of Thamel. An oversized bamboo swing, subtropical plants, lush grass, comfy cotton mats, tea room and bar make for a special retreat. Spend the day reading, relaxing and taking in the sun’s rays. Visit www.gardenofdreams.org.np

2. MONKEY TEMPLE, Swayambhunath, Kathmandu

Climb the 300-something stone steps of the pilgrim’s approach, past the stone animals and birds, to find an impressive stupa, prayer wheels and a wonderful view of the city and its surroundings.

3. BOUDHANATH, Kathmandu

Every day, thousands of Buddhist devotees circle the sacred white-washed stupa beneath fluttering prayer flags. As the sun sets, candles are lit, one by one, around its circumference. Watch this enchanting spectacle while drinking a cool Himalayan beer from one of the surrounding open-air roof-top cafes and bars.

4. PATAN

To the south of Kathmandu is Patan (or Lalitpur), often described as an extension of the capital. Patan’s Jhamsikhel and Pulchowk areas are home to many embassy ex-pats and UN workers. Visit the hip Moksh music venue and bar, next to a yoga and dance centre, English book shop and a jazz school. Visit pranamaya-yoga.com