If you’ve ever seen the cult 1980s film Withnail and I, you’d be forgiven for thinking a holiday in the Lakes would be a big mistake.
Everything that can go wrong does go wrong - including the weather.
It might have been a trip to forget for the characters from the film - but my weekend in the country was nothing short of delightful.
We were invited to spend two nights at the four star Waterhead Boutique Hotel and Bistro in Ambleside, which is right on the shores of Lake Windermere.
Head chef Nick Martin has worked with Jean Christophe Novelli and Keith Floyd, and the hotel has a reputation as a gin-lovers’ paradise, with an extensive gin and tonic menu featuring exotic flavours and blends.
We arrived on a beautiful Saturday afternoon and were shown to our room, which had a beautiful view across the lake - just a stone’s throw from the hotel.
Waiting for us was a complimentary gin and tonic each and some snacks which we enjoyed along with the view, before taking a leisurely stroll by the water.
Having never visited the area before, I was expecting rain but the afternoon was bright, sunny and warm, and so peaceful near the lake. There are plenty of ways to make the most of the water, from jet-skiing to pleasureboat trips.
If you prefer to stay on dry land, just a short walk from the hotel is a Roman fort you can explore for free.Windermere is the largest natural lake in England and is home to many species including otters and kingfishers. At more than 10 miles long and mile wide it’s a bit big to get round in one evening, but we enjoyed an hour’s stroll before heading back to the hotel for our evening meal.
To start, we chose the Cumbrian Waterhead platter with air dried ham, Cumbrian ham hock and corn-fed chicken terrine, Cartmel Valley smoked salmon, olives, sunblushed tomatoes, feta chieese with pesto and artisan bread.
I had sirloin steak with peppercorn sauce, vegetables, a flat mushroom and vine cherry tomatoes, while my husband Liam had venison with vegetables, mushrooms and a baked potato. We chose a delicious bottle of Cotes du Rhone red as accompaniment.
For dessert we both had chocolate pudding.
As you would expect in a four star hotel with a skilled chef, the food was absolutely delicious, cooked to perfection and just the right amount of vegetables and sauces.
Liam said the venison was the best he’d ever tasted. It’s a difficult meat to cook and the cut was served exactly to his requirements.
We’d decided to make the most of the hiking opportunities and scheduled in a big walk for the following day, so rented some films from reception and snuggled down for a cosy night in our room.
After a wonderful night’s sleep in the biggest bed we’d ever seen, we were up bright and early for a beautifully cooked full English in the restaurant.
Fully recharged, we headed out into the town and picked a mountain to climb.
From the hotel it’s a short stroll into the town centre, where you can find plenty of restaurants, pubs, souvenir, food and clothes shops - if you’re into hiking wear, a trip to Ambleside should be top of your agenda as every other shop sells walking gear!
We headed up through the town centre to Stock Ghyll Force, a stunning 70ft waterfall which sends gallons of water crashing down the hillside.
From there we followed Stock Ghyll path up through beautiful woodland where we came face to face with a wild deer, a few sheep - and what appeared to be an eagle hunting for prey!
At the top of the woods you can rejoin the road before reaching a path through fields which takes you to the top of Wansfell Pike.
At 1,500ft above sea level, with steps cut into the hillside for easier ascent, it's a steady climb and do-able for the not so experienced hiker.
The day was very clear, bright and sunny, and at the top there were plenty of people enjoying the most incredible panoramic views over Ambleside and Coniston.
There are a number of ways back down and it wasn't long before we were back in the town centre.As our hotel was part of the English Lakes group we were able to use the leisure club facilities at the nearby Low Wood Bay hotel, which includes a swimming pool, spa bath, sauna, steam room and gym - and even an outdoor hot tub for the brave!
It was a delightful way to relax after the morning's exercise.
After a relaxing couple of hours in the leisure club we ventured into Ambleside for a pizza at Tarantella restaurant and to try out some of the local pubs. There are a range of places to go on an evening: bars, restaurants cosy pubs where you can enjoy a quiet pint or a glass of wine.
There's nothing like country air (and a few glasses of red) to lull you into a tranquil slumber - so it was after another deep sleep that we got up to a third beautiful day in the lakes.
A leisurely breakfast, and there was just enough time for a bit of shopping in the town before our drive back.I might have been expecting rain and nothing much else - but I couldn't have been more wrong. It's a beautiful part of the country and I'll most definitely be back.
The details
- A two night stay at the Waterhead costs from £139 per room per night for a double or twin. Dogs welcome.
- Your stay includes free use of the Low Wood Bay leisure facilities and free parking.
- The bar and grill is open to both guests and non guests from 7pm to 9.30pm. Click here to see the menus. http://englishlakes.co.uk/restaurants/restaurants-in-ambleside/waterhead/bar-and-grill-restaurant/
- Click here to visit the hotel's website: http://englishlakes.co.uk/hotels/lake-district-hotels/ambleside-hotels/waterhead-hotel/
