At one point during our meal at Orlando’s, the popular Italian restaurant on the outskirts of Huddersfield, an elderly lady at the next table let out a whoop.

It can only be described as a whoop, and came courtesy of proprietor Orlando Gubbini distracting her with a fidget spinner (the latest kids’ craze) before reaching into the woman’s handbag and pulling out a hammer. A fake hammer, mind you. But a hammer nonetheless.

“You been working, love?” he asked. The mortified lady first squirmed before whacking him on the arm: it wasn’t her hammer. Orlando winked and laughed, and everyone joined in.

Such is the atmosphere in this family-orientated eaterie where the jokes, banter and magic come free of charge.

Yes, you read that correctly: magic. Real magic in the form of sleight of hand and card tricks that makes the eyes (and mind) go a bit funny.

Orlando Gubbini (left) and Head Chef of Orlando's restaurant at Grange Moor who are finalists for three awards in the National English Italian Resturant Awards.
Orlando Gubbini (left) and Head Chef of Orlando's restaurant at Grange Moor who are finalists for three awards in the National English Italian Resturant Awards.

Atmosphere doesn’t make a restaurant; only food does that.

What Orlando’s offers is an understanding and appreciation of its core audience and a dining experience to match. And that means lots of parties, fun and frivolity that crosses the generations.

Our two girls, aged 10 and nine, are at an age where they’re experimenting with food and taste. Thus they both opted for favourites: Abigail had the mussel special, Emily went with spaghetti bolognese.

The verdict on the mussels – inches deep in a vast cauldron –was overwhelmingly positive. The spag bol – a rudimentary dish that easily can be spoiled – was perfect. We were, after all, eating Italian.

The free garlic bread was a bonus, and was wolfed down by the kids (and dad). That plus generous portions means you’ll never leave hungry.

Orlando's restaurant, Grange Moor.
Orlando's restaurant, Grange Moor.

Orlando’s chefs know how to make a mean pizza or pasta but Mrs E and myself decided to go for a selection from the impressive chicken list.

I had Pollo Mexicano, a chicken breast topped with jalapenos, peppers, nachos and melted cheese in a hot and spicy tomato sauce.

It did indeed possess a south-of-the-border kick in both taste and heat, proof positive that Orlando’s culinary reach extends beyond the Tyrrhenian Sea.

If the Pollo Mexicano provided zing, Mrs E’s Pollo Masala lacked something. Perhaps all the firepower had headed down Mexico way, as this bird needed a tad more masala in its sauce to live up to its name. Still, it’s always good to try something new. Side orders were vegetables (Mrs E) and fries (me).

We skimped on starters to dive into the desserts. Both girls went with pancake with chocolate sauce and ice cream.

Orlando's restaurant, Grange Moor. Restaurant review. Orlando Gabbini (centre) with chefs, Simon Treherne, Dominico Napolatano and Mohammed Ben-Said.
Orlando's restaurant, Grange Moor. Restaurant review. Orlando Gabbini (centre) with chefs, Simon Treherne, Dominico Napolatano and Mohammed Ben-Said.

Abigail cleared hers in record time: the movement from plate to spoon to mouth was a blur. Emily took longer but the result was the same: two enormous Cheshire Cat grins decorated with giveaway choccy smears. My Eton Mess was a strawberry/cream/sugar overload that was impossible to finish, such was the intensity of sweetness.

Beer was Peroni and Mrs E’s prosecco arrived in a mini ice bucket that added a little something to the proceedings. (“Cute,” said Emily.) However at almost £7 per single serving it amounted to a sixth of the overall bill.

The meal concluded with a piece of conjuring that exhibited Orlando’s effortless skill at prestidigitation: placing a coin on the table before using a napkin and wine glass to make it vanish.

He had all of us in the palm of his hand ... even after he exposed the secret behind the trick to appreciative applause from all.

They won’t like that at the Magic Circle.