GRAVY dunkers of the world, rejoice!

Remember those days when it was considered the height of bad manners to mop up your gravy with a hunk of bread?

Not any more; it's an art form.

And at The Huntsman, high above Holmfirth, it's positively encouraged.

Why else would they supply yours truly - a gravy aficiando - with a beautiful, warm ciabatta roll to tackle a deep dish full of rich, lamb and rosemary gravy?

A man has to do what a man has to do - dunk.

It's perhaps not the best thing to when you're dressed up to the nines and it's a formal function.

But it was just the two of us, smart but casual, in a relaxed mood in a very relaxed restaurant, enjoying good food and wine.

The Huntsman has been a fixture on the fringe of the Peak District National Park and the moors above the Holme Valley for many, many years.

Since last summer, it has had new owners.

The historic former farmhouse on the A635 Greenfield Road dominates the skyline and had always been a regular calling point for motorists out for a drive or ramblers using the moors.

An alehouse since the early 19th century, The Huntsman has recently been extended. The new owners , J W Lees, have installed 14 bedrooms, a caravan site and a function suite which is a popular venue for weddings.

The bar and the restaurant are also very popular and on Saturday night, every area was busy as we arrived.

Manchester-based independent brewery J W Lees have pubs across the north-west and they pride themselves on their beers.

A pint of bitter was a welcoming sight as we were shown into the restaurant, which boasts a beamed ceiling, chunky wood tables, squishy leather chairs and a central stone fireplace - certainly not needed on a warm summer evening.

There is a fairly limited menu for the restaurant and a very extensive one for the bar snacks, but the attentive and helpful staff are more than happy to chop and change to meet any demands for dishes.

From the choice of eight starters I opted for spicy chicken wings.

The wings arrived crispy fried and, thankfully, grease-free in a spicy coating, with a chilli sauce. The side salad was crisp and fresh.

My main course, as already explained, was a lamb casserole; chunks of meat in a very rich rosemary and garlic gravy, padded out with new potatoes, shallots and mushrooms.

The crusty bread roll was an unexpected bonus; rip it up and dunk was the order of the day.

Linda had forsaken a starter and picked a main course from the "sizzle" section.

A huge platter of chicken and steak appeared at the side of her plate, already filled with chips and a tortilla.

The meat, cooked in a hoi sin sauce, was joined in the sizzle stakes by mushrooms, onions carrots, tomatoes, peppers and mange tout.

She made a valiant effort to finish it but had to save a litle room for dessert.

We'd chosen a very reasonably-priced Shiraz to accompany the meal and it was excellent.

I had to forgo dessert but, in the interests of research, Linda managed a slice of tarte au citron, served with a fruit coulis and cream. The empty plate told its own story.

Two coffees ended a very pleasant evening, and we finished in the bar with a chat and a final glass of wine.

The Huntsman scored well; the food was good and the service excellent on a night when they were pushed to the limits with a wedding in the function room, another party in the bar and a full restaurant.

And one nice, final touch; a basket of fruit, on a table, from which customers could take an apple.

Venue: The Huntsman.

Address: Greenfield Road, Holmfirth.

Telephone: 01484 850205.

Smoking: Only allowed in one part of the bar area.

Children: Welcomed.

Disabled access: Yes.

The bill: £41.35 including wine.

Would you go back: Definitely.