John: a visit to Harry Ramden’s fish and chip shop

Oct 29 2009 by John Avison

ONE week before Christmas 1928 Harry Ramsden hopped from foot to foot in his little wooden shack next to the Guiseley tram stop and hoped somebody, anybody, would buy his fish and chips.

He needn’t have worried. His secret batter recipe was a winner. His hand-cut chips were the best in Guiseley, then the best in Bradford, then in Britain, then, arguably, in the world.

Three years later, Harry was so successful he opened Britain’s first fish and chip ‘palace’ right next door to the shack where it all started.

He modelled his restaurant on the Ritz in London right down to the mirrors, panelling and chandeliers.

Despite having strong connections with that part of Bradford I had never – until last weekend – darkened Harry Ramsden’s door.

Pretty much on a whim, last weekend, however, we called in en route to a magical mystery tour of the autumnal Dales.

I don’t know what I expected. I knew that the Ramsden brand went worldwide more than 20 years ago so I suppose I thought the operation would be slick and modern.

I found later that Harry’s name is attached to three dozen outlets all over the UK, that Granada motorway services paid £20m for the chain and that Swedish corporation EQT Partners now own them.

The point is, I was expecting something a bit more, shall we say, 21st century.

The centre of the Ramsden empire is a delight or disappointment, depending on your perspective.