It's all change again underneath the arches in Huddersfield town centre.

The Alabama Smokehouse seemed to be open for just a few weeks and then it shut again and in its place has appeared the Little Chilli. In short, it’s authentic street Thai food served in a restaurant setting.

Thai restaurants seem to be booming at the moment and it’s not hard to see why. I’d put up a pretty strong argument that it’s the best food in the world combining the heat of curries with the crunch and goodness of fresh vegetables.

And, no matter how much I manage to put away – and that can sometimes be a significant amount – I never seem to feel bloated.

Little Chilli has its roots in the nearby Huddersfield Open Market where the owners run a noodle bar.

They’d looked at this spot before the Smokehouse moved in and now the timing seems ideal. It’s set up just how they envisaged: a large open kitchen and low-backed seats allowing the eating area to capture the aura of a diner and give it a sense of space.

And, to keep Thai culture very much alive, they even had it blessed by Buddhist monks.

Owner Glyn Edwards has a natural sense of easy-going customer care, happy to give advice and talk in detail about what’s in each dish. That attention to detail is reflected by the rest of the staff.

It’s an extensive menu ranging from curries to stir fries and from salads and soups. Yes, soups. So why mention that? Well, they appear midway through the menu although missus Ruth and I had fancied one to start with as the menu has espoused its sharing qualities.

We were persuaded that in Thailand the soup appears as part of the main course so we bowed to superior knowledge and hence no starter here as our starter’s part of the main course.

So what’s so special about this soup that moves it up the pecking order? Well, it comes in a tureen that appears to have its own chimney in the middle with the soup in the moat around it.

All you can see at first is the pale yellow liquid but put the spoon in and you’ll be amazed and intrigued at what you pull out. The Tom Kha Gai soup (£7.20) features chicken infused with galangal, lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves. The lemon and lime dominate, giving the soup a creamy yet sour taste. Something more than a little different for the British palate.

Our stir fry dish was Ka Tok (£6.80) featuring garlic, chilli and black pepper. Sounds at first as though it’s not one for the faint-hearted and, yes, it’s got a kick but, as with most Thai food, there’s enough in there to soften the spice blow. It wasn’t one we’d naturally have chosen but was recommended by Glyn. And he was right to put his neck on the line with this one. It more than paid off.

The menu says the Jungle Curry (£7.20) is a dry dish but I’d disagree. It has a sauce – a thin one but undeniably a sauce – and the overpowering (in a good sense) flavour was black pepper. I’ve a lot of time for green beans – we really ought to use them more in one-pot dishes as home – and they perfect in this dish.

Little Chilli restaurant review, Huddersfield. Jungle curry

The Massaman curry (£7.20) is one for the sauce lovers: a creamy curry with potatoes, cashew nuts and with a choice of chicken, beef or pork. The chicken worked very well for us and as for the sauce you’ll struggle to find one elsewhere with such a fully-rounded flavour. One spoon and the tastebuds are begging for more … and more … and more. Who do they think they are? Oliver Twist?

We pushed the boat out, quite literally, for you, dear reader and also had a fish curry (£7.20) cooked in coconut. A similar sauce to the Massaman but the fish was so delicate it simply seemed to vanish once in the mouth – and that’s something I’ve never experienced before. Where did it go?

Instead of a pudding/dessert/afters (call it what you will) we had an iced coffee which was smoother than Duncan Goodhew’s head.

So with starters around £4.70, most of the mains priced between £6.80 and £7.20 plus your rice it’s not ultra cheap. But you get what you pay for in life and this is authentic quality. Don’t forget you’ll save a packet taking your own booze.

Two can eat very well and try something you’ve never tasted before for under £20.

I suspect Little Chilli will become very popular very quickly.

3 The Arches, Huddersfield

Tel: 01484 530930

Website: They have a Facebook page www.facebook.com/littlechillihudds

Opening hours: Noon-4pm and 6pm-9.30pm 7 days a week

Children: Welcome

Disabled access: Yes but no disabled toilet

The bill: £49.90 – but that was to try a range of dishes and an average would be around £25 for two.

Would you go back? Already been – the food is great and it has a relaxed atmosphere