Many moons ago there was a circuit of good food pubs on the western side of Huddersfield.

One which disappeared off the culinary map was the White Swan at Outlane – formerly the Swan, as the sandstone-hewn words over the entrance door testify.

The new owners took over at the end of March and have set about trying to re-establish the premises as an eatery as well as a drinkery, with some success if the many comments on the Trip Advisor website are to be believed.

The evening got off to an inauspicious start. I had arranged to meet Martine there at 7pm and blithely walked into the bar exactly on time.

There was a pool table, but I couldn’t see many dining tables. Over half a lager I broached the subject of food with the very friendly barman.

“No, love, we don’t do food. There’s plenty of other pubs round here doing it, so we don’t bother.”

It was at that point that the penny simultaneously dropped and a text bleeped on my mobile phone from Martine asking where I was.

I was, in fact, up the road in the Waggon and Horses which, incidentally looked like a good drinking pub.

A few minutes and a good chuckle later we were in the traditional interior of the White Swan. Sadly, by this time we had missed the popular Early Bird special – two courses for £9.95 from 5pm to 7pm – so ordered à la carte.

In the interests of good journalistic practices we ordered starters as well as main courses. But, to be fair, the portions are generous and the starters were an indulgence.

The menu is quite extensive with two strands – the slightly more exotic Chef’s Specials with starters priced from £3.95 and mains from £9.95 and the more traditional Pub Classics, which included favourites such as mixed grill, lasagne, haddock and chips, Cumberland sausage and mash and the “Ultimate Beef Burger,” with prices from £7.95.

The meats are sourced from H. Copley, a traditional Golcar butcher.

I ordered the most expensive items on the menu, starting with the pan roast scallops with cauliflower and apple. At £5.50 it was a bargain. I’ve had less tasty scallops at twice the price.

The four scallops weren’t huge, but they were just cooked through and nothing more, with a hint of sweetness. Delicious. The cauliflower was al dente, its delicate flavour complementing, rather than overpowering, the seafood.

Martine ordered goat’s cheese mousse with roast beetroot, orange and hazelnuts, which was also beautifully presented. Someone in the kitchen was trying to impress.

The mousse had the consistency of paté and a good flavour, although its full-on richness would have benefited from the addition of a cracker or slice of bread.

Our waitresses were inexperienced but willing. But the pub insisted on running separate tills for the food and drink which meant we had to keep getting up to buy drinks while we were eating and pay for them separately. If they are serious about becoming a dining pub, the owner swill have to address this and allow customers to run a joint tab.

Prices of main courses on the Chef’s Specials are bumped up by the fact that potatoes and vegetables are not included, but available as side dishes at £1.95 each.

As Martine was off ordering more drinks, a huge fisherman’s pie the size of a whale arrived at a nearby table (£9.95).

The quality of my 10oz sirloin steak was excellent and was cooked exactly as ordered – medium rare, although it was slightly over-seasoned. The hearty steak and ale pie topped with puff pastry was rich with large chunks of lean beef. The sauce was reminiscent of a boeuf bourguignon with a hint of tomato. It came with chunky chips, and traditional mushy peas.

VERDICT: Something for everyone. Try the Early Bird for value for money.

THE WHITE SWAN

748 New Hey Road, Outlane, Huddersfield. HD3 3YJ

Tel: 01422 370996

Opening hours: Wed/Thurs 5pm-9pm, Friday and Saturday noon-9.30pm; Sunday noon-7pm

Children: Yes and the pub has highchairs

Disabled access: Just one step in but no disabled toilet

The bill: £33.90 for two, excluding drinks

Would you go back? I’d try the Early Bird next time