Fire up t’ brass band, groom tha’ whippets and pluck a white rose from t’ garden! Happy Yorkshire Day, everybody!

It’s been quite a unique and exciting month for our great county, hasn’t it? I still get a hairs-up-on-neck thrill whenever I think back to standing atop the ‘Col de Greetland’ watching the actual Tour De France whizz past.

We certainly showed everyone what a breathtakingly beautiful part of the world we live in. Yes, even Greetland.

The sunny weather has remained, and it looks like we have a pleasant late summer ahead of us. Worth celebrating this incredible county, then, and today’s the day.

Hence this week’s recipe, which is an all-Yorkshire affair. I decided to cook something I’ve never attempted before, and something, as far as I can make out, which is indigenous to the largest county.

Out came Joan Poulson’s ‘Yorkshire Cookery’, an old favourite of mine, and full of terrifically quaint old recipes from the county.

I passed on the rather ‘niche’ dishes involving parts of pig you’re unlikely to find in Morrison’s, and so today we’re making Savoury Ducks. Nothing to do with actual duck, these little treats are anatine in name only.

Now, despite exhaustive research, I’ve not come up with a definitive origin of the name, so I’m going to go ahead and assume that it has something to do with their original conical shape and the cooking of them ‘swimming’ in a little pan of butter. Like ducks on a pond, see?

Essentially they’re a type of faggot, and very similar to the famous haslet of Lincolnshire. Chopped or minced meat is bound with onions, breadcrumbs and seasonings to make a chunky mixture that can be baked like a terrine, or fried in dollops.

Historically these dishes were a way of making cheaper cuts of meat go a long way, just like sausages and pies.

The original recipe calls for an all-pork shopping list, but as I’m not a huge fan of pig’s liver (I find it a little strong for most recipes) I went and “did it mi’ sen”, deciding upon a lighter, lamb-based mixture. And after all, what’s more Yorkshire than a dry-stone-walled field full of sheep?

The original recipe also calls for caul fat, which, even for chefs, can be troublesome to source, so I’ve opted for an alternative way to coat the ducks. Caul fat essentially works as a barrier to stop the meat drying out as it cooks, and a light dusting of plain flour has much the same effect, so to avoid any bother, we’re using this much more reasonable method.

In addition, the flour makes a nice crispy coating around the juicy filling, which is an added treat.

With the savoury ducks I thought we’d need a sauce, of which Yorkshire boasts many, but the recipe for actual Yorkshire sauce appealed most. It’s essentially a classic Cumberland sauce, but with added meat juices or gravy (how VERY Yorkshire!) and is a combination of port, redcurrant jelly and fresh orange.

It provides a tangy, sweet accompaniment to the rich, deeply savoury little patties, and, when served alongside a nice crisp salad, is a wonderful summery supper.

The perfect way to enjoy the bounty of the county, I think.

FOR THE SAVOURY DUCKS:

500g lamb’s liver, finely chopped or minced

250g minced lamb

250g suet (beef or vegetarian)

500g onion, very finely chopped

450g fresh breadcrumbs

4 eggs

2 tablespoons sage, finely chopped

1 tablespoon curly parsley, very finely chopped

1 tsp Cayenne pepper

Maldon salt

FOR THE YORKSHIRE SAUCE:

Juice and zest of 2 oranges

3 tablespoons redcurrant jelly

350ml ruby port

200ml rich meat stock or gravy

½ tsp ground cinnamon

EXTRAS:

A few green salad leaves

A little vinaigrette

A little butter and oil for frying

A little flour for rolling

METHOD:

To make the Yorkshire sauce, simmer the port with the redcurrant jelly, orange juice and stock until smooth and slightly thickened, then add the zest and cinnamon. Cook for a further few minutes, then remove from the heat and keep warm until you’re ready to serve.

For the savoury ducks, beat the eggs and mix all the ingredients together in a bowl, squishing it all together with your hands until you have an even mixture. Test for seasoning by cooking a tiny amount in a pan, and adjust the pepper and salt accordingly.

Set a bowl of fresh cold water to one side, and flour a work surface well. Roll the mixture into spheres about the size of a table tennis ball and gently press them into a thick patty with neat sides. Roll these in the flour, covering all sides, and pat away any excess flour.

Place them on a tray or plate until you’ve used up all the mixture. In a wide shallow pan, heat a little oil and a knob of butter. Over medium heat, gently sizzle the savoury ducks, basting as you go and flipping them occasionally. They will start to become golden and crispy at the edges.

When they’re cooked through, about 10-15 minutes, remove and drain on a little kitchen paper.

Serve the savoury ducks immediately, with a nice green salad and a spoonful or two of the piquant sauce.

And perhaps a glass of fine Yorkshire Ale?