Half shielded from the M62 by trees and hills is a quiet tavern that probably once slaked the thirsts of coachmen taking the traditional route across the Pennines.

Tradition is definitely Booth Wood Inn’s watchword. After all, it’s a trusted formula for country pubs.

And a pretty little pub it is, surrounded by planters packed with colourful flowers and adjoined to a cute beer garden where, from under the trees, you can watch the tops of lorries rattling along Britain’s busiest trans-Pennine highway.

Inside, the trad theme continues with unimposing dignity. There’s no worn red floral carpet but there are several handsome worn leather sofas and faded red chesterfield chairs.

The bar area and lounge are cosy while the high ceiling in the dining room adds a sense of occasion fit for a hearty munch.

The Booth Wood Inn was previously The Old Bore (sic), a gastropub once run by award-winning chef Scott Hessel.

Before Hessel’s departed the scene, the venue served Thai and fine dining fare.

But since it reopened it’s back to traditional British nosh with international dishes, Tex-Mex nachos and Greek souvlaki for example.

And to help it go down, there’s ales from Manchester brewery Joseph Holt plus Yorkshire guest ales. We’re greeted by a super-friendly host and we settle on a couple of beers.

Steph ordered a nutty ale called Amber Necker by Pennine Brewing Co while thirsty old me downed an Erdinger alcohol free wheat beer. It’s decent as non-alcoholic beer goes.

For starters I ordered topped nachos while Steph opted for soup of the day, cauliflower and cheese.

The nachos are okay, they’re just a little plain and rather greasy – a tangy cheese like crumbly Lancashire rather than plain cheddar would have cut through better. Nevertheless, I’m a sucker for Tex-Mex and the fresh salsa with lime juice and sour cream elevated the dish a little.

Steph fared rather better with her soup which she described thus: “It was smooth and not too thick. Both the cauliflower and cheese flavours stood out without either being overwhelming.

“The cheese sauce had been properly prepared with none of the uncooked flour taste that can easily ruin this classic dish.”

For mains, I ordered a steak and Oates Ale pie with suet pastry, beef fat chips and mixed vegetables. Steph picked a roasted butternut squash tart with spring greens, English asparagus, roasted new potatoes, a poached egg and tarragon mayonnaise.

After piercing the crust to let out some of the heat from one red hot pie, I grabbed a couple of chips. The chips were slightly crispy on the outside while the potato inside was soft, although not quite fluffy. You can tell the chips have been fried in beef fat but only just. They’re reasonable but I’d have preferred crispier edges and a harder hit of beef.

Steak and Oates Ale pie with suet pastry, beef fat chips and mixed vegetables

The pie was of a similar quality; it was better than average but not great. The beef, though plentiful and tender, was a tad overcooked while the pastry was a bit dry and stodgy. The pie improved when I poured in some of the rich gravy which I think was intended for the carrots and sugar snap peas, which by the way, were fairly good.

Again, I think Steph has won this round.

She said: “The sweetness of the roasted butternut squash was nicely offset by the tarragon mayonnaise and paired well with the asparagus.

“The small pickled onions lurking in the spring greens were a slight surprise and although I like them as a rule, they didn’t really fit with the dish.

“The poached egg was a touch overdone meaning the yolk was hard rather than lovely and runny but this is a personal preference.”

For dessert, we shared a fig and almond tart. I wasn’t convinced – I found it a bit sickly – but Steph and her sweet tooth were more impressed.

She said: “It was a beautifully served dish, a round of frangipane with a fig baked into the centre. It was rich and satisfying, especially with a touch of cream poured over it – so satisfying in fact, that it was impossible to finish.”

Booth Wood Inn has a lot going for it: a convenient but sheltered and pretty location, cosy and decor and well-kept ales, wonderfully friendly and attentive staff.

It’s just a shame that the food was of variable quality – perhaps like my ability to choose the right dish.

Oldham Road, Rishworth, Halifax, HX6 4QU

Tel: 01422 825600

Website: www.boothwoodinn.co.uk

Openinghours: Mon to Fri12-2pm and 5-9pm,Sat 12-9pm, Sun12-8pm

Children: Welcome

Disabled access: Entranceand toilets

The bill: £45 for two including drinks

Would you go back? Maybe