Eating out in Christmas party season – when you’re not having a Christmas party – is a bit of a gamble.

Firstly, if the restaurant is half decent, you’ll struggle to get a table and if you are lucky enough to sit down, then the service may be somewhat slower than ideal.

But the compensation is the festive atmosphere – and the chance for some serious people watching.

How great it is to scan the restaurant trying to guess which profession the diners are from – and watch the faces and body language of work colleagues who would rather be anywhere else on earth than plonked next to the office bore.

My partner Sian and I had been threatening to meet up with my good friend Stanley Solomons, well known in local singing circles, and his wife Nancy for some time and never quite got there.

So it came to pass that we met up at Trattoria Domenico, a traditional family-run Italian restaurant in Huddersfield’s Imperial Arcade.

We had a little wait for our table but we can’t complain as both couples were slightly late and dripping wet from the downpour outside.

The place was packed, staff were buzzing and several parties were in full swing.

We were eventually shown to our table, allowing time for us to dry out. The table was snug and we were next to a large works party – accountants I guessed – who were in the process of arriving.

We ordered a bottle of house red – for the ladies – and sat back to peruse the menu. Spoiled for choice doesn’t come close.

I like Italian restaurants because no others come close for atmosphere, and Domenico is up there with the best. Choosing our food took time which was just as well as we were kept waiting.

That’s not a complaint, it’s Christmas after all. The staff more than compensated with their attentiveness, enthusiasm and good humour.

By the time our order had been taken the ‘accountants’ on the next table had all been counted in and the drink was flowing.

Our starters took half-an-hour but were well worth the wait. I opted for the Crocetti (£8.25) which consisted of the delicious bresaola, or cured beef, the juiciest fresh oranges and melon, orange marmalade and crispy salad.

It was enormous and almost a meal in itself. Truly mouth-watering and the perfect appetiser.

Sian went for Don Ciccio (£7.95), flat mushrooms with spinach, smoked bacon and dolcelatte sauce. The flavours soared.

Stan and Nancy both had the garlic mushrooms, Funghi Dolcelatte (£7.95), and the portions were huge. “We could have shared,” said Stan, thinking more about his stomach than his wallet.

Trattoria Domenico, Imperial Arcade, Huddersfield.

My starter and the garlic mushrooms came with far too much bread. I had to leave most of mine otherwise that would be the dessert out of the window and I’m not that daft.

Veal is a favourite of mine and I chose the pan fried Vitello Romana (£15.95). It was served with mozzarella and a smooth and textured sage mash. The marsala sauce was rich and I couldn’t quite clear my plate.

Nancy also went for the veal. Her Scaloppa Di Vitello alla Milanese (£15.95) had the meat coated in parmesan bread crumbs and lightly fried.

Her only complaint was the size of the portion.

Sian loves her seafood and went for the Spaghetti Scoglio (£11.95). The prawns were impressive specimens and I had food envy as I watched her dive in. We didn’t get a peep out of her for at least 10 minutes so the silence spoke volumes.

Anyone who knows Stan will agree he couldn’t possibly remain quiet for 10 minutes! His duck – Anatra Che Bonta (£14.95) – was served with fresh orange and plums and flamed in Grand Marnier.

He gave me a slice and it was tender, tasty and pink. I usually avoid duck but this could convert me.

The meat was only warm at best, however, and pointing that out to the waiter afterwards Stan was told it was the last slice hence why it wasn’t as hot as it could have been. Blame Christmas again.

Stan and Nancy are both (ahem) at the ‘senior’ stage of the dining age range and found the portions too large.

When this suggestion was made to the waiter, he responded: “Ha, that means the chef is in a good mood tonight. If he wasn’t the portions would be smaller!”

I have to agree with Stan and Nancy over the portion sizes. And with the starters a little pricey – up to £12.95 for king prawns – there is room to manoeuvre on size and cost.

After two courses the ladies weren’t up for dessert. Stan’s eye was greedier than his belly but my Coppa Tiramis (£4.25) was polished off with indecent haste. Creamy and moist, it was delicious.

Your other portions are huge but please, sir, could I have some more tiramisu?

By the time we’d finished it was pushing 10pm but another party had just come in. Definitely not accountants they were from Huddersfield Choral Society and to prove it they gave an impromptu performance. What a great end to the evening.

OK, we had one or two minor gripes but that can be put down to Christmas. Most certainly our yuletide gamble was a winning one and a good night was had by all.

Imperial House, Imperial Arcade, Huddersfield, HD1 2BR

Tel: 01484 518588

Website: www.trattoriadomenico.co.uk

Opening hours: Monday 11.30am-8pm;

Tuesday-Thursday 11.30am-11pm; Friday and

Saturday 11.30am-11pm. Closed Sundays.

Children: Welcome

Disabled access: No

The bill: £120.35 including drinks

Would you go back? Absolutely!