WHAT exactly is brunch? Is it a late breakfast; an early lunch; or a made-up meal that only appears in pretentious cookery books and television dramas set in the Edwardian period?

I suspect that it’s all these things, because the very word implies a relaxed mealtime with a hint of old-fashioned luxury.

Think silver salvers; bone china tea cups and serving staff in crisp, starched aprons.

Anyone for kedgeree?

It’s not often that the man and me get a chance to have brunch. But as we were recently in that most brunch-like of Yorkshire towns – Harrogate – we thought that we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to laze the morning away at Bettys, that most genteel of Yorkshire cafés.

It was 10.30am on a Friday morning and, having missed breakfast, we were ready to eat copiously and ravenously.

Fortunately we arrived at just the right time. The café was bustling with activity, but there were still a couple of tables to be had. An hour later and we’d have had to join the queue that stretched almost to the door. Queues are a familiar sight at Bettys, almost all day.

This fact alone suggests that Bettys is giving its customers what they want. But, we wondered, is this historic and traditional café truly deserving of its reputation? A reputation that draws tourists to its doors like pigeons flocking towards crumbs. We would have to devote ourselves selflessly to the sampling of muffins and cakes in order to find out.

Although there was not a specific brunch menu, Bettys has a comprehensive list of what might be properly called ‘substantial breakfasts’ and ‘decent dinners’.

The man looked no further than the first item on the menu – Rösti, a traditional Swiss dish of grated potato, Gruyere cheese and cream topped with bacon, tomato, mushrooms and poached egg. A feast on a plate for £9.95.

Bettys prides itself on providing a mixture of traditional Yorkshire and Continental confections.

This is because it was founded in 1919 by Swiss-born Frederick Belmont, who brought fancy foreign cakes, raclette cheese and rösti to the spa town.

The story goes that Frederick had intended to set up his tea rooms in the more genteel South of England, but got on the wrong train and ended up in Yorkshire.

Bognor’s loss was clearly Harrogate’s gain.

Today there are six Bettys, all still in Yorkshire, and the craft bakery opened by Frederick in the 1920s remains the source of all confections and breads.

The menus have a wide selection of comforting, warming foods and the shop at the front of the café is crammed with enticing cakes, biscuits and other foods that fall into the naughty-but-nice category.

Frederick said that aim of Bettys should be to serve food that is “fresh and dainty.” Such a lovely word ‘dainty’ and it sums up perfectly the afternoon tea atmosphere.

I chose a simple bacon and scrambled egg muffin (£6.50) and we both ordered a Bettys cappuccino. After browsing the tea menu I also had a rosebud tea, because it sounded so pretty and tempting.

The man wolfed down his potato cake with the relish of one who is frequently deprived of buttery, cheesy, meat-laced treats (which he is, if I do the cooking) and said it was delicious.

My muffin was similarly buttery and filling – the perfect brunch dish.

The tea arrived with its own tiny pot and strainer and was light, fragrant and palate-cleansing.

We ordered a batch of cakes from the shop, intending to spoil ourselves, but discovered that we were, in fact, all brunched out.

So we took them home in a box instead to share with the offspring, who behaved as if we’d brought them the crown jewels. “Oooh, have we got cakes?’’

There’s something decadent and lovely about brunching on a weekday morning. And Bettys, we thought, had lived up to its reputation.

The serving staff are all smartly turned out – men in suits, women in waitressy black and white – and the café itself has been furnished to be comfortable and traditional. There are carpets and comfy seats – no cold, stripped wooden floors or minimalist decor.

We emerged 90 minutes later feeling replete, cossetted and relaxed.

Venue Bettys, 1 Parliament Street, Harrogate.

Contact 014223 502746, www.bettys.co.uk

Opening Times 9am until 9pm every day

Disabled Access yes.

The bill £25.50 for two, excluding cakes.