THEY say the proof of the pudding is in the eating. Except we didn’t actually get round to the pudding on this occasion.

Not that we didn’t want to; the choices were stunning.

It was simply that we had enjoyed an absolutely superb meal already and another course would have been a step too far.

But we did have the proof; the proof that quality will always out.

The Three Acres at Roydhouse, Shelley, has long held a reputation as one of the finest eating establishments, not just in Huddersfield but in the wider region.

Would-be challengers have come and gone but in recent months, there have been new and inspired restaurants lobbying for the crown.

The Three Acres can see them off, if the performance the staff delivered on a Thursday evening in August is repeated.

The food was excellent; the staff welcoming and helpful; and the ambience excellent.

Yes, quality does not come cheap. But our bill for a very enjoyable evening was by no means excessive.

We were in good company. The restaurant, which boasts more than 200 covers, was very full on the evening we visited and judging by the pre-meal conversations, many of them were regulars.

It was only my second visit to the restaurant, which nestles in the shadow of the towering Emley Moor TV mast.

A previous stop had been for lunch with a business colleague; this time it was a night out with my wife, Linda.

So it was a bit of a surprise when we were ushered to a table in a prominent corner in the restaurant;- the very table I had used some 15 years earlier. Talk about “Your usual, Sir”.

Coincidences apart, it was a great start. We chose to have a drink in the bar before sitting at the table and enjoyed a pint of Timothy Taylor’s Landlord and a huge glass of Shiraz as we settled in.

The inn has nestled in Roydhouse, a hamlet between Shelley and Emley, for 100 years. It has been owned and developed by Neil Truelove and Brian Orme for over 30 years.

They have created bedrooms for guests as well as the exclusive Krug Room and Tasting Room for special dinners.

It’s a bit of an eclectic look inside the sprawling building. There is something of a huntin’, shootin’, fishin’ theme in some areas but others seem like every aspect of your favourite local rolled into one.

And the restaurant isn’t shy about blowing its own trumpet, with testimonials from one or two famous diners dotted about the walls: Town manager Lee Clark, England rugby star Austin Healey, soccer player Carlton Palmer and, perhaps most telling, celebrity chef Marco Pierre White.

If it’s good enough for Marco......

Within seconds of being shown to “my” table our cheerful waitress re-appeared with a great hunk of warm, crusty bread and an oil dip, as well as a jug of iced water.

The starters arrived minutes later and the evening really took off.

Linda’s choice of Peking style duck with pancakes was a great notch above the usual offering; tender pieces of duck braised in a spicy, yet sweet sauce and a batch of wafer-thin pancakes in which to wrap it.

I went for the Three Acres chicken liver parfait and terrine of ham hock and it was divine. The pate was rich and creamy and the terrine was packed full of meat.

But even that offering was outdone by my main course. I picked Assiette of Lamb which turned out to be three superbly-tasty creations.

There were two thick cutlets from a moist and tender rack of lamb, melt in the mouth devilled kidneys and a lamb and caper pie which had a rich sauce with a real kick. Throw in the Dauphinoise potatoes and the summer vegetables and it’s a perfect meal.

Linda’s pan-fried halibut more than did credit to a fine fish and came with tender scallops and a helping of chive and parsley mash.

The fish was perfectly-cooked and seasoned, softened by the beurre blanc sauce that accompanied it. Simple yet sophisticated.

There was nothing to fault and it was just a shame we hadn’t the appetite for the puddings. Just to prove how good they were.

Three Acres Inn

37-41 Roydhouse, Shelley, HD8 8LR

Tel: 01484 602606

Website www.3acres.com

Opening hours Lunch 12 noon to 1.45 pm. Evening 6.00 pm to 9.30 pm.

Children Yes

Disabled access Yes

The bill£73.80 including drinks

Would you go back?Definitely and without waiting 15 years