It's just over a month since the tiny Black Cat Bistro opened in Holmfirth.

Owners Liam Root and Sophie Bebb have considerable experience in the restaurant business, but this is the first time they have parted with hard cash to set up their own.

Brother Sam Root is head chef at the nearby Mezze, and Liam will be hoping to emulate his brother’s success – and that of his new premises’ previous occupant, Nick’s Kitchen, which was the most popular restaurant in Holmfirth, according to Trip Adviser.

A difference is that the Black Cat has not only an alcohol licence, but also a local sommelier who helps select the wines, several of which are award winners.

Liam’s CV includes restaurants in London and a spell as The Hepworth’s chef, now the Spiced Pear.

The Black Cat Bistro has just 16 covers and is tucked away in premises around the back of the Nook, which an estate agent would undoubtedly describe as bijou.

Step through the door and you are almost in the kitchen itself. Liam is squeezed in a space under the stairs where he’d have a hard job swinging a black bean, never mind a black cat.

He’s hemmed in by a stainless steel range and a miscellany of fresh food and kitchen implements, and I have to admit to being impressed.

You have to love cooking and have confidence in your ability to cook in a space like this, where you are constantly on view with absolutely no hiding place.

The ‘Choose your own music’ sign, large selection of old LPs and painted wood give the place a quirky and homely feel, indeed, not unlike a rustic French bistro.

The four tables and mishmash of wooden chairs are up a narrow wooden staircase; unfortunately, the old building does not lend itself to disabled diners.

Video Loading

A couple of simple but effective touches include the menu written large (great for the over 40s) on a long roll of brown paper hanging on a dark blue wall and an ‘open wine cellar’ of individual bottles with names and prices displayed on the opposite wall, like expensive trainers in a sports shop.

The cuisine is English with a French twist. Liam and Sophie source much of the food locally – using Huddersfield suppliers, friends’ allotments and even foraging.

The menus are short and seasonal, dinner options change every three to four days, lunch ones less often.

Prices are reasonable and the serving staff were extremely helpful and friendly as they shed pounds disappearing up and down stairs for an extra spoon or ice cube.

Our meal started in a promising manner when home-made bread with a hint of pesto arrived with an aioli dip. The seared king scallops (£7) were not overly large, but were succulent and accompanied by a delightfully delicate cauliflower purée.

The pastry in Doreen’s pastry sandwich of wild mushroom provided a light backdrop, allowing the flavour of the truly fresh funghi to shine through.

However, I was disappointed in my French onion soup, which should be a staple in any bistro. The soup was thin and lacked the full-bodied sweet flavour of truly caramelised onions.

Black Cat Bistro, Holmfirth - French Onion Soup

Although Liam has a light hand in the kitchen, we felt that a little more seasoning generally would not have gone amiss. Salt is, after all, a flavour enhancer.

But the pile of tasty Shetland mussels with ribboned courgettes were indeed served in a rich sauce, which was swiftly mopped up with the homemade bread.

The unusual samphire plant, which grows on seaside cliffs, featured in a couple of dishes, adding a surprising element.

The succulent hake fillet was only just cooked through, which in my book is perfection. It was served with roast peppers bursting with colour and flavour and cannelini beans.

For dessert the redcurrant frangipane was simply outstanding.

The superb fruit was local, packed full of flavour and combined with the fragrance of the almond casing to really set the tastebuds alight. The excellent apple and pear tart ran it a close second.

VERDICT: It’s good and with a couple of tweaks, it will be extremely good.