IT'S a long time since I cashed a cheque at the former Yorkshire Building Society premises in St George's Square, now a shiny new curry house, but this restaurant is a banker.

LaLa’s has certainly been a long time coming.

For months and months curry lovers patiently waited for Indian restaurant chain Saffron to morph into view thanks to huge signs in its windows promising its arrival.

However, nothing came of it and the Grade II listed structure has been largely empty since the building society closed its branch there in 2005.

Fortunately, Junior Rashid, who already has successful restaurants in Batley and Wakefield and a banqueting suite in Bradford, spotted an opportunity. He took a large gulp and embarked on the huge task of painstakingly renovating the ground floor of Britannia Buildings.

And for curry lovers the wait has definitely been worth it.

From the giant golden embossed lettering proudly proclaiming its arrival this restaurant exudes classy cool. A nice touch is the glass-fronted ‘fountain’ which greets customers, neatly connecting with the rather larger ones just yards away in front of the railway station.

Because it’s only been open a matter of days inevitably there are still the odd ‘snagging’ details to be ironed out.

This causes some amusement for my brother-in-law, Paul, and myself at one point, as the engaging manager ‘Shibby’ finds himself in a losing battle with the magnificent dark curtains constantly coming adrift of their moorings.

Paul and I always enjoy loitering at the bar for a good hour before we hit the tables and Shibby and his uniformly excellent staff including the shy bar girl from Oldham, make for entertaining companions.

No attempt is made to hurry customers to their seats which instantly earns them Brownie points in my book.

As a keen student of Yorkshire’s curry scene for some 25 years I am as happy with Formica tables, flock wallpaper and sticky floors but for once it is good to just sit on a bar stool, soak up the ambience and admire the view of St George’s Square even on a damp and drizzly Tuesday night.

And it would be rude not to take time to study the exquisite care with which this 120-seater restaurant has been lovingly assembled. After all not many curry houses can boast marble-clad walls, impressive Corinthian columns and ornate architraves.

Then there’s the crystal chandeliers and the glorious coving which has been meticulously restored and which are worth a good five minutes’ squint at least.

Just deciding where to sit takes time too. Diners can opt for sitting bang in the middle, down the sides or seat themselves in the golden high-backed seats.

Eventually we ease ourselves from our bar stools and plump to sit in the centre where one has a good view of the chef going about his business behind a window.

What to eat? Although I have deliberately not eaten anything at all during the day I am not terribly hungry.

Paul, meanwhile, is notorious for not finishing his meals and asking for a doggie bag for his wife – whom he unkindly refers to as “the vacuum cleaner.”

Eventually I decided to have a starter of Aloo Chana Puri which is fine while Paul, whose parents hailed from India, saves himself for his main course – Alloo Chana with Paneer.

He awarded it 9 out of 10 and was impressed by the “beautiful surroundings which were unique to this Indian restaurant.

“I have been to literally hundreds of Indian restaurants around the country but this place was different in terms of surroundings.

“The staff were extremely friendly without being over the top and willing to discuss the menu and the different dishes on offer.

My main course of King Prawn Balti (hot) with pilau rice and plain Nan served, Bradford-style on a ‘tree’ was delicious – plenty of sauce and piping hot.

Although we didn’t have room for desserts I was glad to see they serve proper Indian ones – Rassmalai and Gulab Jamon though, hilariously, they have also included that old Indian favourite Luxury Sticky Toffee Pudding.

A liqueur coffee Cognac, another of my little tests, rounded off an extremely enjoyable evening.

Junior talks of bringing a “restaurant revolution” to Huddersfield. Competitors have a right to be nervous if not downright afraid.

This new kid on the block is likely to be around for a very long time and has set an extremely high standard.

LaLa’s

St George’s Square, Huddersfield, HD1 1LG

Tel: 01484 426205

Website: www.lalasrestaurant.co.uk Opening hours: Sunday to Thursday 5pm - 11.30pm. Friday and Saturday 5pm - 12.30pm.

Children: Welcome!

Disabled access: Yes.

The bill: £61 for two including two glasses of wine, beers and liqueur coffee.

Would you go back? Tomorrow!