Halifax's Dean Clough Mills are a shining example of urban regeneration. Armed with pots of money and even more imagination, Sir Ernest Hall transformed 1.25 million sq ft of the semi-derelict Crossley’s carpet factory into a vibrant artistic and commercial hub.

And at the rather inauspicious address of Ground Floor, Mill F, is Ricci’s Tapas and Cicchetti (Venetian nibbles), an absolute gem of restaurant which is causing ripples in culinary circles across the nation.

No wonder – head chef is Mark Kemp, of El Gato Negro fame.

I arrived a little late and was delighted to discover that Martine and Christine had already ordered bottle of Prosecco; our glasses arrived atop with fresh strawberries – a great way to kick off the weekend.

We hadn’t succeeded in booking a table – there’s a six-week waiting list for Friday and Saturday evenings – but had requested three seats at the bar. We were in no rush to sit down as we stood sipping our Prosecco and soaking up the lively atmosphere.

Nineteenth century solidity fuses seamlessly with 21st century chic. The interior boasts modern glass and steel fittings with a stylish wooden bar against a backdrop of old stone walls, exposed oversized pipework and a high brick vaulted ceiling which soaks up the noise.

Our fellow diners were mostly – but not all – a younger crowd and everyone appeared to have dressed for the occasion; the vibe is metropolitan.

Chefs were flat out preparing food in the heat of the open kitchen, while the barman was taking each glass out of the dishwasher, recleaning it and meticulously inspecting it against the light before deeming it fit to be placed in the rack.

This attention to detail was reflected throughout; the chef’s delicate touches and accompaniments were pure delight.

Three places cleared and we were off – Christine almost had to be winched up on to her tall seat at the bar. The uncomfortable bar stools are my one complaint in what is otherwise a first rate restaurant.

Founder is Huddersfield-born Michael Ricci, son of an Italian father. He started his career in kitchens – from Australia to Singapore and Europe, including Michelin-starred ones.

Michael then imported artisan foods from the far flung corners of Italy before building his own successful restaurant business, which includes Ricci’s Place in Halifax town centre.

To describe Ricci’s cuisine as Spanish and Italian finger food would be like describing lobster caviar frittata as fish and chips.

The fresh raw ingredients, wonderful balances of flavours and textural contrasts make Ricci’s a must for anyone with more than a passing interest in food. In traditional tapas style we got the ball rolling with wonderfully soft and flavourful jamon Iberico – eyes closed and you’re sitting with blue-overalled Spanish workers underneath hanging hocks in a rustic bar in las Alpujarras.

The accompanying celeriac remoulade was to die for and I’d all on not to scoff the lot, but we’d agreed to share each dish.

Ricci's Pasta and Cicchetti, Dean Clough, Halifax - Jamon Iberico with celeriac remoulade

I’ve eaten bruschetta dozens – nay hundreds – of times, but can honestly say that Ricci’s olive-soaked version dipped in the rich home-made pesto sauce was the best yet.

Sweet potato wedges may not sound so exciting, but served with goat’s cheese, honey and figs, they proved an irresistible combination.

The pan-fried tiger prawns really hit the tastebuds. They were big, juicy and very moreish, soaking up the nicely balanced flavour of the garlic and chilli.

The rich aromatic lamb hara bhara was a highlight. It had a marvellous depth of flavour, while the aubergine and harissa caviar provided the perfect accompaniment. Martine wasted no time in polishing it off along with the delicately spiced cauliflower fritters.

There’s nothing rustic about this tapas, it’s food at its finest, and we were already scouring the place mat menus planning our next visit. (I’ve already booked mine).

Sadly, the queen scallops with carrot and ginger, the steak tartare with wasabi crostini and duck yolk, and the slow roasted Iberian suckling pig would have to wait.

We did, however, share a glorious rhubarb, white chocolate and ginger pot – a sweet finale to a superb meal.

Ricci's Tapas and Cicchetti

F.Mill, Ground Floor, Dean Clough, Halifax, HX3 5AX

Tel: 01422 410204

Website: www.riccistapasandcicchetti.co.uk

Opening hours: (Kitchen) Monday to Saturday 12 noon, last food orders 9pm

Children: Welcome

Disabled access: Yes, full

The bill: £58.40 for three, including a bottle of Prosecco

Would you go back? In a heartbeat