With so many former drinker’s pubs changing their style and ambience to offer food with their ale selection, the key is to find the good ones.

And, I must confess, I’ve become somewhat snooty of late about the standard of grub on offer in these hybrid alehouse/eateries. Gone are the days of the wayside inn with its hearty fare, ruddy-cheeked landlord and jolly serving wench. Then again, that probably only ever existed in the pages of a Dickens novel ... and not for the best part of a century.

Flash forward to the new millennium and it is indeed possible to locate a pub that strikes that fine balance between olde worlde alehouse and restaurant. One of the best is The Foxglove at Kirkburton.

Located beside the busy Penistone Road but enjoying a sequestered feel next to a fairytale wood and a babbling brook, The Foxglove is firmly rooted in the here and now while embracing its 19th century beginnings.

The test of a pub is in its welcome to all generations and in all seasons. In winter The Foxglove offers a blazing log fire that complements rural decor and stone floors. Alas, summer temperatures meant the fire was out when we arrived en-masse for a children’s birthday party, but the place retained that inviting atmosphere and the staff didn’t blanch at waiting on a table of 11 kids and seven adults.

The Sunday menu offered a mouth-watering selection of homely dishes which gave the mums and dads a choice of pies, burgers, roasts, salads and fish and chips. Naturally, we dived in. I opted for beer-battered cod served with triple-cooked chips, mushy peas and tartare sauce (£11.50), which retained enough of the traditional fish ‘n’ chip shop vibe but with that quintessential pub grub twist. VERDICT: Simply delicious

My wife went with a chicken and thyme pie in a creamy chenin blanc sauce, topped with puff pastry (£10.50). She substituted the spring onion mash for chips and the accompanying glazed carrots were plentiful. There was evidence of real skill in the kitchen as this dish boasted moist meat and crumbly pastry.

Again, so many pubs cook their food from frozen ... and it shows. The Foxglove’s fare tastes and is reminiscent of that yummy food of yore. A side order of cauliflower cheese added to the creamy taste and went down a treat. Charles Dickens would have lapped it up.

For the kids there was a nice selection of mix and match. The eldest had grilled chicken with sweet potato fries and veg sticks. The youngest had margarita pizza with chips and veg sticks. They ate most of it, which is all you ask as a parent.

Days later I dropped in again for a quick lunch: Aberdeen Angus burger served in a brioche bun, topped with smoked cheddar and served with burger relish and homemade onion rings, plus a cheeky pint of Doombar (£15.45 in total). Service was quick and attentive, the beer was perfectly drawn and - crucial, this - I was left to enjoy my meal in peace and to enjoy the view of the grounds. The finale was pure indulgence: a Belgian chocolate brownie with chocolate sauce and Irish liqueur ice cream (£4.95).

So if, like me, you’re a closet pub grub snob, you’ll do alright with The Foxglove.

Neither over-priced nor cheap as chips, it is a glorious roadside oasis of calm, courtesy and choice cuisine that suits the wallet and the tastebuds.

The Foxglove

Phone: 01484 602101

Website: https://www.vintageinn.co.uk/restaurants/yorkshire/thefoxglovekirkburton/restaurantsfood

Opening hours: Open every day noon to 11pm; 10.30pm on Sundays

Children: Suitable for diners of all ages

Disabled access: Yes

The bill: £38 for a family of four, including alcohol

Would you go back? Already have.